Removing the O-Ring from a Delavan Siphon-Nozzle Oil Burner

I like the way my siphon-nozzle burner without the o-ring is functioning, and but I would like to be able to leave the burner outdoors for several days in a row without worrying too much about corrosion, so I am going to replace the mild steel muffler pipe with 304 stainless tube.

I bought a couple of pieces of stainless tubing, and the dimensions are:

2.5" OD
2.26" ID
0.12" thick wall
304 stainless tubing annealed

I bought it from Speedy Metals.
https://www.speedymetals.com/pc-4498-8276-2-12-od-x-120-wall-tube-304-stainless-steel-annealed.aspx

They offer a 0.065" thick wall tubing, but I thought the 0.12" wall would be much easier to weld with a nickle rod.
I also think the heavier wall will help maintain a more accurately round shape, which will help getting a good seal at the tuyere.
And a heavier wall will allow things to be clamped to the tube without risking deformation of the metal.

I think the interior burner parts that I have will slide into this tube, since the old burner also used a 2.5" diameter tube.

 

I need to dig out that angle template program that Pedee mentioned.
I think the link is here:

http://www.harderwoods.com/pipetemp...&rmd=18&rbd=2&rbt=.063&offset=8&Submit=Submit

I am hoping to get an accurate fit between the two pipes (for a change).

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I used the pipe fitting program to make templates for the pipe joint.

I used a 30 degree angle, and selected "Perpendicular Cut" for both the header and branch pipe cut types.

I will print the branch template, cut the branch pipe first, then fit it to the header pipe exactly probably using some light sanding, and then use a sharpie to draw the outline for the cut in the header pipe.
If I can get the fit accurate enough, I may silver solder the two pipes together, or I may not since that may prevent me from welding on either pipe in the future.



















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There was a neat spin vane on the other forum that was laid out flat on sheet metal, I think water-jet cut, and then the vanes bent into shape so that it fit inside the tube.
Anybody remember where that was exactly?

 

I have been playing with a air brush type compressor. With a 2 MM Chinese suction nozzle it picks up around .75 gallons an hour and develops a very fine mist. I have not tried to pressurize the fuel to the air brush compressor. I will be trying a pressurized fuel system soon just to see if such a small compressor can get 3 G.P.M. to mist.
Although I have not tried the pressurized fuel yet. I am hopefully that I can get a spray rather than a stream. With just the vacuum from the nozzle the mist was very fine and would have easily lit. If all works out I would light the furnace with the .75 G.P.M. with a fine mist, them bring up the fuel pressure to the required G.P.M. and a coarser spray.

Joe

 

The iron melt I did the other day ended up with a 2.75 gal/hr fuel flow, and I really think I could have easily done the same thing with 2.0 gal/hr, or possibly even less, perhaps as low as 1.5 gal/hr.

I am finding out that getting full combustion of a lower flow rate is far more important that getting partial combustion of a higher flow rate.

The very first siphon nozzle burner that I made was actually a $20.00 paint sprayer, and it would produce a big flame.
The only reason I did not use it was because I could not figure out how to fit the nozzle parts into a burner tube.