Discussion in 'Burners and their construction' started by Douglas Braun, Oct 17, 2019.

  1. Douglas Braun

    Douglas Braun Copper

    Continued from my introduction here.

    Great idea Jeff. I've watched quite a few videos this week and am really liking the idea. The choke system I pictured below

    seems to appeal to me a bit more than the "T" drilled thru the reducer method. I am convinced I can get a better alignment for my mig tip this way on the lathe. I also like the idea of the gas inlet being the threaded choke rod. The tips I found laying around are .044 so I think i'll need to get something smaller...
    why do these burners all appear so much bigger on youtube than when I start to mock them up? Can I use a 1" pipe with a 1 ' to 1.5 ' reducer instead of a 3/4" pipe? Also, can the main pipe of the burner be a stainless steel nipple instead of the black iron? Would be a lot easier for me when welding on the flair... :cool: ok ok the bling factor plays a little roll too. Was thinking one of these welded right onto the 1" pipe, or maybe sleeve the one inch up to 1.25, then flair from there? trying to avoid the exposed internal threads messing with my gas flow. Any suggestions sure would be appreciated, Sincerely.

  2. Jason

    Jason Gold Banner Member

    Are you having burner ENVY??? :D If you want to be all fancy schmancy and use SS, go for it.
    At this rate, you are going to beat Matt to the punch for the first pot of metal!

    Where ya at Matt? The challenge has been set!:p
    Douglas Braun likes this.
  3. OMM

    OMM Silver Banner Member

    I do love the stainless steel look. I guess I’ll have to update my thread a bit...I’ve been falling behind.
    Douglas Braun and Jason like this.
  4. Douglas Braun

    Douglas Braun Copper

    I should have just bought one... :mad:

    Sorry for the delay, stinkin day job gets in the way of everything except paying bills. I hope everyone had a safe and fun Halloween! Anyway, I ended up laser cutting the choke and bracket support out of 1/4" 304. one design with two legs and another with three. 73114822_507435366479361_97665735244906496_n.jpg 73284056_1402046493304341_676747289477251072_n.jpg
    i'll press the legs down, thread the holes and weld them to the reducer this weekend if all goes well. I bought a 1" MPT x 1/8"FPT reducer for the other end of my 1 x 1 1/2 burner reducer to hold the mig tip rod in place while welding the brackets on. After running the gas line (1/8" threaded lamp rod) through the reducers, i'll just thread the bracket down where I want it and weld it in place. Hopefully this will ensure perfect alignment. I made a couple different designs to try and will clean them up, bend them to shape and weld them onto the reducer this weekend if everything goes as planned. Just to be clear, the 1" to 1/8" reducer with the lamp rod and mig tip threaded in it are NOT part of the burner design and just being used as a tool for centering things while welding. The bracket arms have not been pressed down yet either.
    74188742_429186411132089_8290702734428995584_n.jpg 73190178_439895956729384_4454309762342846464_n.jpg 74474345_2374627889314661_7124079669967585280_n.jpg

    Please speak up if you see any fatal errors in my thinking. I tend to have some from time to time. Sincerely!
  5. Douglas Braun

    Douglas Braun Copper

    for the geeks here that care...


    all burner parts were proudly...
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
  6. oldironfarmer

    oldironfarmer Silver

    The reason to use a 3/4" pipe is to get the velocity in the burner tube above the flame velocity so it does not burn at the MIG tip.

    With a 1" pipe you may want more than 0.044 tip. You'll be able to burn a lot of propane. How big is your furnace?
    Douglas Braun likes this.
  7. Douglas Braun

    Douglas Braun Copper

    Thank you for the input. My furnace size I guess will end up about 9.5 to 10" wide cylindrical, still working on the depth :(... I'm going to make another @ 3/4", can the reducer still end up at 1 1/2" for a 3/4" nipple? I haven't even drilled my tuyere yet because i wasnt sure this was the right diameter flair or pipe... I bought a 15 pack of these and made several different tip sizes to try as well. You know, i'm not even sure what the hell I am shooting for flame wise... I just know I want to achieve something efficient for melting aluminum brass copper and stays lit. I really appreciate the help. Sincerely.
    Last edited: Nov 1, 2019
  8. OMM

    OMM Silver Banner Member

    Is the only fuel that you’re using (or want to be using) LP??? Don’t worry so much. There is a lot of forgiveness syphoned air. If I’m reading this correct, your 1 inch delivery pipe is your choke. The other choke will be the regulator and the size of the tank providing the fuel.

    I’m guessing you’ll probably want to 15-30 psi regulator, But you’ll probably also want 2=>40-60 pound tanks and a bathtub of water for the tanks to sit in to keep them from freezing.
  9. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    Very fancy looking burner. I literally have a 1/8" steel pipe with a cap on the end and a #57 hole in the end directly into my tuyuer which melts the bronze.

    The process is pretty forgiving. Just the hole size matters for propane. A #57 drill bit is what you want.
    Douglas Braun likes this.

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