The Basics: Drip Injection Waste Oil Burners

Discussion in 'Burners and their construction' started by Tobho Mott, Aug 24, 2017.

  1. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Once upon a time, we had two boosters running and someone closed one of the system valves sending 150 psi to about 10 or so houses..... WHOOPS!!!
     
  2. oldironfarmer

    oldironfarmer Silver Banner Member

    Truly can't overemphasize the value of a pressure relief valve. If you're pressurizing a tank the regulator can stick and it could make a big mess when it kills you. You wife would be pissed.
     
    Jason likes this.
  3. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Silver Banner Member

    I think maybe we need a thread for oil burner fuel tanks... Meanwhile I'm using the cooler/tank from one of these:

    https://www.orthomed.ca/aircast-cry...k3EZhenlBIHPnFm0maQw1957htP_NWlUaAvI9EALw_wcB

    Got it at the thrift shop for less than $5, but now that I've looked it up and seen the price for new, I should have sold it and bought stuff to build something a little bigger before using it for diesel and wvo.

    Works good though, the outlet fits an ordinary garden hose thread. A #12 crucible of bronze has run it empty before the pot was fully melted though. I had to turn the propane back on while refilling it...

    Jeff
     
  4. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    That's hilarious.

    100bucks for a big thermos? Give it a good clean and garage sale it.
     
  5. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Silver Banner Member

    I was real close to pulling over to pick a bigger steel tank of some kind out of some guy's trash this morning to build a bigger oil tank from... Maybe the garbage truck won't take it and I'll get a 2nd chance on the way home later. :D

    Jeff
     
  6. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Surprised scrapper didnt get to it before you saw it.... Hot water heaters and such only last about 45 minutes around here once put to the curb....
     
  7. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Silver Banner Member

    Well I head to work pretty early. But I also come home early... and they'd gotten it by then.

    Jeff
     
  8. oldironfarmer

    oldironfarmer Silver Banner Member

    I've been running on oil a few weeks now and really like it. Thought I'd pass along my design. I had bought an atomizer but was too lazy to rig up a good filter system before I decided I liked to burn oil so I started with a 1/4" ball valve. It was too hard to control the flow but I learned it would plug a few times every melt. I added a 1/2" gate valve(couldn't find a 1/4" or 3/8" gate) and it works well. When it starts to plug I snap it open and back a put a slug of oil and debris into the furnace, get some extra flame and a little smoke but that is soon gone and the valve is clean.

    IMG_3883.JPG

    Red hose is oil and the yellow handle with needle valve upstream is propane. It's working well enough I don't think I want to use the atomizer.
     
    Jason likes this.
  9. PatJ

    PatJ Silver Banner Member

    Looks good.
     
  10. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Nice work. Once you burn free fuel, you'll never want to pay for propane again. Whatcha got for the fuel tank?
     
  11. oldironfarmer

    oldironfarmer Silver Banner Member

    When I added on to my shop I added a four post lift. I bought a roll around oil change drain tank for the lift and wound up with one that you pressurize the tank to drain the contents.

    IMG_3796.JPG

    It operates up to 40 psi. I'm using about 4 to 6 psi. With the funnel all the way up there's a 2" valve to close. I removed the drain hose and installed a tee and connection for running oil to the burner.

    IMG_3819.JPG

    Relocated the relief valve on the regulator and added a tee there so I could put in a clear line for a level gauge.

    IMG_3820.JPG

    Flow comes out of the bottom into the tee. Needle valve is just to shut off the sight glass in cases of a leak.

    It's working very well. The original tank setup was about $100. I didn't buy it because of the pressure drain, bought it to have an old looking drain tank for my lift. Glad it was a pressurized tank when I decided to try to learn foundry work. It has a fine mesh screen in the funnel which I almost removed because it drains oil slowly from a car or truck but it is great for giving the used oil a little filtration.
     
    Jason likes this.
  12. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    4 post lift...... sighs with jealousy.
    My next house WILL have a lift. I'm getting too old for this crawling around on the floor nonsense. Doesn't horrible freight sell drain tanks like this? I dont know why I didn't think of using one when I built my tower of power.:(
     
  13. oldironfarmer

    oldironfarmer Silver Banner Member

    I need to apologize in advance. I've got an old single post Rotary lift as well.:rolleyes:

    I don't think Harbor Freight has the drain tanks, I spend a fair amount of time there, my favorite tool store. :eek: My was under $100 on eBay, delivered.

    Lots of methods for doing a specific task will work. The optimum method may depend a lot on where you live and what other resources you have. The main reason for posting here is so the majority of readers, who enjoy lurking but seldom or never post, can see alternate ideas. Copying a specific design that works for someone else may not work for you at all. The key message I hoped to get across on these posts is that the gate valve is quick opening to clear obstructions instead of disassembling piping to clean out a needle valve in systems where the oil is not well filtered. The gate valve still allows control of the oil flow. I would rather have a 3/8" gate valve or even a 1/4" but I couldn't find one locally the day I wanted to install it. The 1/2" valve is adequate. The important part is you won't have a blockage if you can make a full opening. I still have the possibility of a blockage where the 1/2" pipe necks back down to 1/4" pipe but have not have a problem in about 15 hours of running.
     
  14. Petee716

    Petee716 Silver Banner Member

    Just some food for thought. When I finished my tank I poured all I had accumulated into it. Probably 25 gallons or so from various sources. I actually used it sometime later. Prior to running it I tapped the drain at the bottom and got at least a quart of oily water. There could have been some still in there from when I pressurewashed it to get the scale out of it, but I think I had drained it pretty good. Every time I use it I open the drain first and always get water. Not much. A couple oz maybe before the oil comes out solid, but it's some. It may still be residual or maybe from compressed air, probably both. But a gulp of water going into the furnace can't be good.

    Pete
     
    oldironfarmer likes this.
  15. oldironfarmer

    oldironfarmer Silver Banner Member

    Good suggestion!

    I saw a spot of oil under the tank today and got down to look. It has a drain plug. Duh!! I should have put a valve on it first. Guess I'll run it dry and put a valve on. I think the oil spill was from where I over filled the funnel at top, though.

    There is usually water in oil plus you'll get some from the air. I didn't think that far ahead. The oil I was pouring in looked good but with temperature swings some water will fall out.

    Water going into the furnace will make steam and temporarily extinguish the fire but with an open top firebox it should not affect the molten metal or the crucible. I might be wrong.
     
  16. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    I don't pressurize so no real worry about water. I did put a 3inch stand pipe in the bottom of my tank. Prevents sucking up trash on the bottom of the tank. Yes it cuts down a little on useful capacity, but I have had to refuel while running and that's not an issue.
     

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