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  <channel>
    <title>Pattern making</title>
    <description>Pattern making</description>
    <pubDate>Wed, 22 Apr 2026 12:11:22 +0000</pubDate>
    <lastBuildDate>Wed, 22 Apr 2026 12:11:22 +0000</lastBuildDate>
    <generator>The Home Foundry</generator>
    <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?forums/pattern-making.29/</link>
    <atom:link rel="self" type="application/rss+xml" href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?forums/pattern-making.29/index.rss"/>
    <item>
      <title>Waxing</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 13 Nov 2025 12:50:55 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/waxing.3071/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/waxing.3071/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Bruce Mowbray)</author>
      <dc:creator>Bruce Mowbray</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Quick question. I am using a match plate with 4 two-piece parts, half above and half below. Should I add a fillet to the part / match plate interface which will become the parting line or should I leave these corners sharp?<br />
<br />
Thanks!]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>DIY shrink rules</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 07 Sep 2025 19:23:09 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/diy-shrink-rules.3038/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/diy-shrink-rules.3038/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Tobho Mott)</author>
      <dc:creator>Tobho Mott</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Found some really cheap metal rulers at Walmart that don&#039;t have the cork backing.  So I grabbed a couple to make some shrink rules using an idea I saw a few years back on Chirpy&#039;s Tinkerings&#039; YouTube channel.<br />
<br />
Pretty simple to do.  First I used a couple dots of super glue to stick one of the rulers to my healing mat just over the edge where a square could line up against it.  Then to make the 3/16 per foot rule I marked the back of another ruler at 12 3/16&quot; from the end.  Then I used a few...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/diy-shrink-rules.3038/" class="internalLink">DIY shrink rules</a>]]></content:encoded>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Trouble Finding Small Letters---~3/16" High  Have them CNC'd?</title>
      <pubDate>Mon, 14 Jul 2025 13:25:42 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/trouble-finding-small-letters-3-16-high-have-them-cncd.2262/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/trouble-finding-small-letters-3-16-high-have-them-cncd.2262/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Melterskelter)</author>
      <dc:creator>Melterskelter</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I am having trouble locating plastic letters for pattern making about 3/16&quot; high.  I do not think Freeman makes them any more.  I had a local engraving shop laser some out, but the kerf needed is pretty large and so the line weight of the letter is too thin and aligning the letters is also problematic.<br />
<br />
I can add draft with paints and shellac as long as I can get the letters neatly applied.  The &quot;stencil&quot; resulting from lasering the letters I had made is too loose to really assist in...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/trouble-finding-small-letters-3-16-high-have-them-cncd.2262/" class="internalLink">Trouble Finding Small Letters---~3/16&quot; High  Have them CNC&#039;d?</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>62</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Match Plate Runners and Gates</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 27 Jun 2025 05:45:04 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/match-plate-runners-and-gates.3011/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/match-plate-runners-and-gates.3011/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (John Homer)</author>
      <dc:creator>John Homer</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[<a href="https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?attachments/25692/" target="_blank">View attachment 25692</a>
	
 

	<a href="https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?attachments/25693/" target="_blank">View attachment 25693</a>
	
 Question for the group.<br />
I have purchased this match plate and would like to know where the recommended sprue should be placed? Should I put in two sprues for each runner? or join them?<br />
Also should the runner be in the cope or drag? I&#039;ve seen it done both ways in other plates.<br />
Any suggestions are appreciated.]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Learning patternmaking</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 19 Jun 2025 12:03:36 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/learning-patternmaking.2978/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/learning-patternmaking.2978/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Mburtis)</author>
      <dc:creator>Mburtis</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I&#039;m a woodworker so the craft and trade of pattern making is as interesting to me as that of moulding. There seems to be generally limited amounts of information out there concerning this trade and craft. I read a book from 1904 this morning about patternmaking, it wasn&#039;t all that great. I just found another one from 1887 so we will see what that&#039;s like. <br />
<br />
I would love to learn more about traditional pattern making. Are there any good resources out there? Something like the navy foundry...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/learning-patternmaking.2978/" class="internalLink">Learning patternmaking</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3D scanning objects for reproduction</title>
      <pubDate>Tue, 15 Apr 2025 21:24:58 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-scanning-objects-for-reproduction.1494/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-scanning-objects-for-reproduction.1494/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Mach)</author>
      <dc:creator>Mach</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I built one of <a href="https://en.openscan.eu/openscan" target="_blank" class="externalLink" rel="nofollow">these scanners</a> recently and successfully scanned an old plaster mini sculpture. <br />
<img src="https://static.wixstatic.com/media/953640_79fc4513efb24a75a437d0c34ebc3153~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1803,h_484,al_t,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/953640_79fc4513efb24a75a437d0c34ebc3153~mv2.webp" class="bbCodeImage LbImage" alt="[&#x200B;IMG]" data-url="https://static.wixstatic.com/media/953640_79fc4513efb24a75a437d0c34ebc3153~mv2.jpg/v1/fill/w_1803,h_484,al_t,q_85,usm_0.66_1.00_0.01/953640_79fc4513efb24a75a437d0c34ebc3153~mv2.webp" /><br />
<br />
I was very impressed by the detail that it extracted so I&#039;d thought I&#039;d share.   My goal is to upsize my old sculptures in bronze. <br />
<br />
The original is about 3-4...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-scanning-objects-for-reproduction.1494/" class="internalLink">3D scanning objects for reproduction</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>36</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Using actual part for pattern</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 23 Mar 2025 21:28:55 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/using-actual-part-for-pattern.2972/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/using-actual-part-for-pattern.2972/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Mburtis)</author>
      <dc:creator>Mburtis</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[So one of the first parts I want to cast in aluminum is a trigger gaurd for a rifle of my dad&#039;s. The original is plastic and has been warped for years due to the pressure of the mag well pushing on it. <br />
<br />
Now I could carve it out of foam and lost foam cast it. Which I might try just to see how it works and that might actually be the easiest/fastest. I could cast in some of the details I would otherwise have to machine. I could also carve a wood pattern fairly easy and simplify the uncastable...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/using-actual-part-for-pattern.2972/" class="internalLink">Using actual part for pattern</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>3</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Gating for Small Bronze Parts</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 21 Sep 2024 20:41:12 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/gating-for-small-bronze-parts.2902/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/gating-for-small-bronze-parts.2902/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Tops)</author>
      <dc:creator>Tops</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Working on some trinkets for my classmates who worked on a boat with me over the summer.<br />
We pulled out 100&#039;s of bronze screws and a fair amount of bolts and threaded rod.<br />
I collected a large coffee can full and wanted to melt it down and cast them a little something from it.<br />
I can add some cleaner bronze from another boat if needed.<br />
<br />
Large part is 3.28 x 1.25 x .165&quot; ( 83 x 42 x 4.2mm)-going to make this one 2-3-4 (?) on a new plate<br />
gate is .5 wide x .165&quot; deep (13 x 4.2 mm)<br />
well is  1.27 x...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/gating-for-small-bronze-parts.2902/" class="internalLink">Gating for Small Bronze Parts</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>7</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3d Printed Patterns or Wood?</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 11 Apr 2024 14:54:35 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-printed-patterns-or-wood.2830/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-printed-patterns-or-wood.2830/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (AndyOverPartsPro)</author>
      <dc:creator>AndyOverPartsPro</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Hi guys:<br />
I am an entire newbie trying to get started making some patterns. I have been trying to determine, what exactly is the benefit of 3d printed patterns versus wood patterns? What are all the pros and cons of each?<br />
Its not like I would be doing any amount of production, so how well they hold up over the years really does not matter as this will probably be a once and done casting. By the way, the cheapest method is the most appealing to me.<br />
Any tips or advice would be appreciated.]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>34</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Marking gauge for patternmaking</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 17 Mar 2024 20:29:12 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/marking-gauge-for-patternmaking.2827/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/marking-gauge-for-patternmaking.2827/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Tobho Mott)</author>
      <dc:creator>Tobho Mott</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Weekend project!<br />
<br />
I doubt it works any better than the cheap marking gauges you can get for $20 at Home Depot, but I didn&#039;t have one of those yet and this was way less infuriating than a trip to the orange hell.  And hopefully it looks a little nicer.<br />
<br />
The pattern was made of dollar store clipboard MDF and bondo, with a few coats of shellac and some paste wax.<br />
<br />


	<a href="https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?attachments/24120/" target="_blank">View attachment 24120</a>
	
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	<a href="https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?attachments/24121/" target="_blank">View attachment 24121</a>
	
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	<a href="https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?attachments/24122/" target="_blank">View attachment 24122</a>
	
<br />
<br />
Cast in brass that I had left over from the...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/marking-gauge-for-patternmaking.2827/" class="internalLink">Marking gauge for patternmaking</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>2</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>HT1's Pattern Library</title>
      <pubDate>Sun, 18 Feb 2024 14:25:49 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/ht1s-pattern-library.1936/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/ht1s-pattern-library.1936/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (HT1)</author>
      <dc:creator>HT1</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I&#039;ve considered this for a while and will move forward with some encouragement from the peanut gallery, expect a new pattern picture &quot;regularly&quot;  perhaps a video once in a while for the more complicated patterns .<br />
<br />
If you like what you see,  please  just hit like,  if you have questions ask,  but please if you want help or have a major issue idea,  start a new thread, so we don&#039;t get way off target<br />
<br />
<br />
we will briefly go over my storage, as it is a critical issue and requires more planning...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/ht1s-pattern-library.1936/" class="internalLink">HT1&#039;s Pattern Library</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>17</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Making Core boxes</title>
      <pubDate>Sat, 21 Oct 2023 00:15:46 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/making-core-boxes.2712/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/making-core-boxes.2712/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (HT1)</author>
      <dc:creator>HT1</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I was DMing Dave Clark the Pattern Guy  (YouTube Famous)  talking about making the Core Box for crotal Bells. he gave me an Idea that just blew My traditional pattern making mind.<br />
<br />
Dave Clark Quoted &quot;I would make a male core stick and pour a plastic core box. You can get Plastic from Freeman Supply. I use Repro 83.&quot; <br />
<br />
this Idea still has me just flabbergasted in the simplicity, make a male core (model)  and pour a box , you could use PoP  for most pieces.  this is so Game changing,  things...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/making-core-boxes.2712/" class="internalLink">Making Core boxes</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3D Sign Software</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 31 Aug 2023 13:44:04 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-sign-software.678/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-sign-software.678/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (oldironfarmer)</author>
      <dc:creator>oldironfarmer</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I&#039;ve seen lots of software recommendations, and the amount available is staggering.  I&#039;m currently using Fusion 360 but it is very cumbersome for text.  I want to cast some 3D signs and am looking for an easy software to design and produce files for my 3D router.  <br />
<br />
My goal is to be able to type text and change fonts with the software.  It doesn&#039;t really have to have draft capability as I can use a tapered cutter.<br />
<br />
What&#039;s your recommendation?]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>14</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>A 3d Scanning Project</title>
      <pubDate>Wed, 23 Aug 2023 14:57:21 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/a-3d-scanning-project.2647/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/a-3d-scanning-project.2647/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Rocketman)</author>
      <dc:creator>Rocketman</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[There&#039;s a plaque I want to produce copies of it.<br />
I put together a mobile scanning setup:<br />
<br />
Laptop<br />
3d Scanner (s)<br />
AC Powerbank<br />
3d scanning spray<br />
Nylon bristle brushes<br />
<br />
The object I was looking to scan is a 13hr drive away. I rented a place nearby to serve as basecamp.<br />
<br />
Here is the subject:<br />


	<a href="https://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?attachments/23155/" target="_blank">View attachment 23155</a>
	
<br />
<br />
It measures ~20&quot; x ~13&quot;<br />
I have both a Creality Lizard and Revopoint MINI 3d scanner. The lizard is reliable and has good tracking but loses some detail, especially on the smaller...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/a-3d-scanning-project.2647/" class="internalLink">A 3d Scanning Project</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>8</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>3D scanner!</title>
      <pubDate>Fri, 18 Aug 2023 22:59:03 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-scanner.2644/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/3d-scanner.2644/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Matth)</author>
      <dc:creator>Matth</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I bought an expensive tool I hope to reproduce parts with. Maybe I can offer it as a scan service soon because to get my parts scanned locally is prohibitively expensive for the components I&#039;m trying to cast.<br />
<br />
I have to say, the level of detail is pretty fantastic except for my son&#039;s face where I realized telling a 6yr old boy to hold real still is kind of pointless.]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Using Silicone Molds to Make EPS Patterns For Lost Foam</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 22 Jun 2023 18:44:33 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/using-silicone-molds-to-make-eps-patterns-for-lost-foam.842/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/using-silicone-molds-to-make-eps-patterns-for-lost-foam.842/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (rightbug)</author>
      <dc:creator>rightbug</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I saw some folks wondering about the possibility of using silicone molds to create EPS patterns in an older thread.  I&#039;m not sure if anyone ever tried it but I&#039;ve been playing around with the process this last week so I thought I&#039;d share my findings so far.<br />
<br />
My ultimate goal is to cast a brass ball-peen hammer using lost foam casting and it quickly became apparent that with my limited tools and skill set, sculpting a decent foam model wasn&#039;t going to be possible.  My research into...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/using-silicone-molds-to-make-eps-patterns-for-lost-foam.842/" class="internalLink">Using Silicone Molds to Make EPS Patterns For Lost Foam</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>54</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>A good method for finishing FDM 3d printed patterns</title>
      <pubDate>Thu, 22 Jun 2023 15:00:03 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/a-good-method-for-finishing-fdm-3d-printed-patterns.2267/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/a-good-method-for-finishing-fdm-3d-printed-patterns.2267/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Rocketman)</author>
      <dc:creator>Rocketman</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I ran across this method on Youtube and gave it a try. It&#039;s effective.<br />
<br />
The materials &amp; equipment:<br />
<br />
Bondo Spot Putty<br />
Cheap Airbrush (harbor freight, $10)<br />
Acetone<br />
High build primer<br />
Good ventilation/PPE<br />
<br />
So the basic method is as follows:<br />
<br />
Work in a well ventilated area free of ignition sources (you are aerosolizing Acetone, albeit in relatively small quantities)<br />
Sand the 3d print with a coarse sandpaper to remove the high spots<br />
Fill &amp; sand any major problem areas with regular bondo if...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/a-good-method-for-finishing-fdm-3d-printed-patterns.2267/" class="internalLink">A good method for finishing FDM 3d printed patterns</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>22</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Where to split this pattern?</title>
      <pubDate>Mon, 29 May 2023 16:04:38 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/where-to-split-this-pattern.2587/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/where-to-split-this-pattern.2587/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (G3j)</author>
      <dc:creator>G3j</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[I&#039;m making a live steam locomotive.   The next cast is to be the trailing wheels.  The drawing is for the original 45&quot; wheel, but my project is 1/8 scale, so just under 6&quot; diameter.  <br />
<br />
I can&#039;t figure out what the pattern should look like.  The drawing shows the hub, rim and spokes drafted to the back side.  That would imply the whole pattern would draw in one direction rather than being split.  But then how to I get the shape of the spokes at the front, as well as the hub extending proud of...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/where-to-split-this-pattern.2587/" class="internalLink">Where to split this pattern?</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>10</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>2 stroke cylinder core</title>
      <pubDate>Mon, 09 Jan 2023 13:44:20 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/2-stroke-cylinder-core.2456/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/2-stroke-cylinder-core.2456/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Gradella)</author>
      <dc:creator>Gradella</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello guys, i&#039;m new here.<br />
i&#039;m looking for advice about core boxes design.<br />
I designed my own 50cc 2 stroke cylinder, and since i&#039;m too poor to pay someone to study and manifacture all the necessary stuff for casting, i&#039;m trying to model and create the core boxes by myself via 3d printing.<br />
<br />
I&#039;ve already tried some prints and coated them with a special filler, and the results were good: optimal roughness, perfect alignment and coupling.<br />
<br />
The problem is that since this is my first experience...<br />
<br />
<a href="http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/2-stroke-cylinder-core.2456/" class="internalLink">2 stroke cylinder core</a>]]></content:encoded>
      <slash:comments>4</slash:comments>
    </item>
    <item>
      <title>Core Print Design for Bell</title>
      <pubDate>Mon, 19 Dec 2022 15:31:03 +0000</pubDate>
      <link>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/core-print-design-for-bell.2447/</link>
      <guid>http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/index.php?threads/core-print-design-for-bell.2447/</guid>
      <author>invalid@example.com (Tops)</author>
      <dc:creator>Tops</dc:creator>
      <content:encoded><![CDATA[Hello Everyone,<br />
Thinking about casting a bell as a gift for a bell collector in the family.<br />
The core print would be about 2.6&quot; [67mm] tall and round in a tapered shape, part wall is about 3/32&quot;[2.4mm] and will be in aluminum.<br />
Wondering if the base for the print (dark gray) and pattern (tan) at .75&quot; [19mm] tall is enough?<br />
Thinking about 3D printed patterns and core molds and 2 to 5 % 2:1 epoxy in fine sand for the core material.<br />
Thanks!<br />


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