3D scanner!

Discussion in 'Pattern making' started by Matth, Aug 15, 2023.

  1. Matth

    Matth Copper

    I bought an expensive tool I hope to reproduce parts with. Maybe I can offer it as a scan service soon because to get my parts scanned locally is prohibitively expensive for the components I'm trying to cast.

    I have to say, the level of detail is pretty fantastic except for my son's face where I realized telling a 6yr old boy to hold real still is kind of pointless.
     

    Attached Files:

    Tobho Mott, Billy Elmore and Tops like this.
  2. Smoking Shoe

    Smoking Shoe Silver

    Who's scanner did you buy and what is 'expensive'?

    Looks better than my Ferret (cheap end of the spectrum) has been able to produce.
     
  3. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    We just put one in capital expense budget at 85K...not sure we can actually justify that cost but nonetheless we are giving it a shot.LOL
     
  4. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Have you tried using any of the scans (as-is) yet?

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  5. Matth

    Matth Copper

    Ah, it was short of $3k. A guy could spend a lot more but really this Einscan unit gives pretty fantastic results for anything as big as I want to fool with. If I got creative enough I COULD scan a car but the file size would be immense and too large for me to work with. I have to say, so far I'm pleased with the weeks of research leading to this scanner.

    No I haven't used the scans as-is yet but I'got no reservations. Matter of fact you probably bring up a good point. I'll try to print a scanned part in the next couple days and let you know with pictures.

    So far the only pains are fixturing the part so it's rigid at some strange angle AND most parts are reflective and useless to the scanner. I have many hours trying to figure the best solution to these already. I might have 100hrs in figuring what to do with the mesh data for use in CAD.... which seems to be the big industry secret unless you have an unlimited budget for software. That bit doesn't matter if you scan - print - cast, but the first time you make any change to the "model" other than scale you are stuck because a scanner gives you mesh data, not solid, not parametric. I started working to write software to automate the solid conversion but then I stumbled across a trick.

    This is really a challenging..... technology on a budget. I suppose that's why there's a market for $60k scanners and $120k scanners. The tech is so new there's not really an aftermarket (Chinese) unit available that I could find to compete with the expensive systems.
     
  6. Matth

    Matth Copper

    Was a good test. No tricks, no prep, plop it on the scan table and print the result. You can see the scanner did not pick up the black areas, specifically the hair on the back of his head was just missing altogether. I did generate a "water tight mesh" which means any places missing in the scan (hair) were approximately knitted to the areas around which did yield data. I could have prepped the object for a much better result if it mattered but I can cast this toy.

    2.5M triangles reduced to 0.5M triangles for file size and calculation speed in the slicer. Printed in PLA, I think 1.2mm layers on a Sidewinder X2.
     

    Attached Files:

    Tobho Mott and Tops like this.
  7. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    Nicely done. I need to spend more time with mine, taking objects all the way from scan to finished copy. My scanner came with a small rotating turntable and a 4" (100mm) white resin bust of Julius Ceasar that they give you for practice. When I had the Einscan, it was capable of seeing the small lines between the beads of EPS foam on one of those foam 'heads' that people use to hold hats and wigs.
     
  8. Jammer

    Jammer Silver Banner Member

  9. Billy Elmore

    Billy Elmore Silver

    Cant remember the name of it but there is a spray that you can spray a part with to block the reflection. I think it was called AESUB or something like that. He used it during our demonstration because the parts were too reflective.
     
  10. Matth

    Matth Copper

    Thank you. That stuff is a lot less expensive than the coating I found before and refused to buy. One funny bit: I tried red building chalk at one point. While yes it worked wonderfully, it also got all over and stained everything with a 5ft..... So don't try red building chalk unless you just have to.
     
  11. Rocketman

    Rocketman Silver Banner Member

    I have used AESUB Blue. It evaporates/sublimates after a period of time (supposed to be no more than 4 hours) out in the field I have found it starts to disappear in as little as 10 minutes. It works with zero fuss, easy to apply, does not readily build up too heavily. It is nearly $50/can after shipping, though: https://visionminer.com/products/aesub-blue

    I have had reasonable luck with foot spray, it's suspended aerosol corn starch I think. It washes off okay but can leave a scent
    I also tried dry shampoo, the stuff I got has an overpowering scent that will linger on your object. Both the foot spray and the dry shampoo are susceptible to build-up, it takes some practice to get them to lay down nicely

    I had also read about zinc oxide powder in an alcohol suspension applied via spray bottle, I tried this - very messy and difficult to clean up - would absolutely not recommend
    Other mentions: foundry type non-silica parting dust, meh. flour: messy! also meh

    The absolute best I have found is grey primer, if your object is something that you can paint. Half of the car parts on my shelves are primer'd now, haha
     

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