My Rotozip RZ1 is finally giving up the ghost after being rebuild and ran for several hundred hours. I am looking or suggestions for a spindle/router. 110VAC/60hz/single phase. The newer 'Zips do not have the same spot on the their cases to attach them axially to a machine. It would be nice to use 1/8" tooling with a simple collet and not another adaptor within a 1/4" collet. The Makita 5-6.5 amp 'clones' retail for about 60$ US and some come with soft start, variable speed, and LED lighting. Refitting will be a challenge as I no longer have a reliable spindle for making new parts nor do I work at a place with a captive machine shop. Thanks for any suggestions!
I use a Dewalt 611 on my diy cnc. Had to hand cut the mount for it from plywood--easy. You can get both 1/8 and 1/4 collets for it.
Just the brushes (brush frame) last time, bearings are not listed as a currently available replacement part. Now it is getting hot during very short runs. I suppose I could take it apart and looks for numbers on the bearings, etc. I was hoping to upgrade and remove one or two level of hokey-ness, such as having a separate router speed control and the way I have the RZ1 mounted in the Z-axis.
Thanks for the DeWalt info. I should free my mind to make homemade parts...or make them at Daryl's...
I used the DeWalt 611 that came with my machine for several years. I went through a set of brushes but it served me well. They are kind of pricey for what they are. I cast a different mount for a Porter Cable 690 because I wanted 1/2" shank capability. I have a boat load of 1/2" shank bits. I run a cheap speed control now but I also have a super PiD that I could drive from my CNC controller.......just haven't gotten around to that yet. Best, Kelly
I rebuilt an old high speed drill press motor ~20K RPM and the bearing shop supplied C2 clearance bearings which is correct, but with rubber seals which is not correct, as they don't like high speed and ran quite hot. Once I changed them for metal seal bearings (like the originals) it ran at normal temps again. The two clearance types you want are "CM" - Clearance Motor or C2 both of which are tighter and quieter than "CN"- Clearance Normal bearings. These days C2 clearance are getting harder to buy so just opt for CM which overlaps C2. Also my bearing shop "experts" insisted there was no such thing as CM clearance until shown the separate table in the NSK bearing manual away from the usual CM, C2 C3 etc. clearances.
Thanks Mark, thanks Kelly. There is an Ebay vendor selling the bearings for 18$ US. Looks like they come stock with rubber seals. https://www.ebay.com/itm/221616585099 I suppose the first step is taking the 'Zip off the CNC and taking it apart. That is the step I am good at!
They look like 620x series bearings in the photo. The last digit is the inner race bore in increments of 5mm, i.e. a 6203 is 15mm, a 6204 is 20mm. So if your bearing bore was 15mm it would be a 6203 ZZCM where the ZZ is metal shields both sides for NSK bearings. NSK rolling bearings manual on page A-170 discusses CM motor bearing clearances on table 8.4.1 and page B020 (page 298 in the pdf file) shows your bearing dimensions and part numbers.
Thanks Mark, here is what I found at page B020. Unit is apart. Brushes have some life left. Upper small bearing seems smooth, lower larger one is a little rough. The upper bearing sits in a rubber cup inside the plastic housing, the lower right in the housing Lower bearing is marked NSK 366 6002V, measures 32mm OD x 15mm bore x 9mm deep. Lines up with info Mark provided
The epoxy on the front part of the mounting bracket for the RZ1 has also failed over time. I will clean this up and re-epoxy and maybe add some pins to keeps the (2) pieces of FR4 together.
For the past few years I have been running the 1HP RoutER11 "link". It has NSK bearings and is speed adjustable (10K-32K) while taking standard ER11 collets. I added a inline relay to the cord to control on/off via software and it has been holding up very well. Before this I also used a Dewalt 611, I only switched to get the constant speed control and ER collets without needing a adapter.
For rebuilding tools like these, is is enough to support the bearing with say plywood and then tap the shaft through or will I need some sort of puller or press? Upper bearing does not have a split ring, lower bearing does.
You can easily damage small bearings if you're not careful. Ideally you'd have a small diameter steel tube that matches the inner bearing race diameter. That would let you drive the inner race down the shaft using the tube like a pin punch until it hits the shoulder on the shaft. You can get the old bearings off with a small gear puller without worrying about them being damaged. I think plywood would be too soft and transfer some force to the outer race which you don't want. Some flat mild steel with a hole would be better, especially with a washer to transfer the force to the inner race only.
