Ahh I see. A cover thing. I'll have a look for straps. Does it have to be anything special or just anything that will hold and secure it to motor? It will all be inside my cabinet
You'd just get a strip of thin sheet metal and bend it to shape by hand around the capacitor and then carefully clamp the ends to drill a mounting hole: drilling sheet metal safely (aka "whirling razor blades of death") is an entire topic on Youtube.
KISS method gotcha. So strap it and drill it into the motor case, then put a plastic box / boot / cover over it so I don't die by touching the cap. What about working with the cap? I'm guessing they aren't charged when I first get them and will be safe to wire up? But after I turn it on for first time it's going to be a death trap if touched right?
Try to use existing holes for mounting rather than risk drilling the motor, it's not crucial to attach to the motor, just nearby is fine. For AC electric capacitor run motors, the run capacitor should discharge through both the start winding and the run winding if all is working properly.
You could even secure it somewhere inside the cabinet near the motor and wire it to the motor. Just make sure the connections are enclosed. Any capacitor that might be hot can be discharged by shorting a screwdriver across the spades. (Let someone else deal with big ones though. Those suckers can be nasty.)
The new capacitor won't be hot but you can ground it just to be sure. Mounting it on the inside of the cabinet is the best idea to me. You are adding panels to your new base for torsion I assume.
For torsion? Not sure what you mean. But I am adding 16 gauge sheet metal side panels. I spent a lot of time thinking about the motor mount mechanism today. Sorted it out I think. I have a good idea for the cabinet and how to space it out and make it nice and open and usable. I think the bigger 1.5 hp motor may need an extended back part to the cabinet since it is so big. I may have to extend the sheet metal panels somehow. This is the back of the motor.
Without side panels your frame may twist under load and vibration. The factory stand is actually quite well designed for the loads imposed by a bandsaw, even though it looks flimsy.
Yes thats what the original frame was doing. Was driving me crazy. I think it was made from too thin sheet metal. The new square tube one is rigid and stable. No twisting with my full weight on it. I also beefed up the plate the saw sits on from a 14g piece of metal on the original stand to a 1/3" thick plate. I think I'm going to weld the plate onto the frame to eliminate twisting. Then I may rivet the sheet steel on to the frame to eliminate warping from welding and cover the corners with L steel to tidy it up. I'm also going to make a large front access door since I hated the original tiny door to the motor. I will reuse the belt cover from the original stand so I don't lose fingers.
How do I black steel? I see a lot of parts were somehow darkened. I had to sand blast a few to remove rust but it would be nice to return them to black. This part in particular Also here is a small update of the cabinet with the motor tension system. I will add a screw to adjust the tension and remove vibrations.
Thinking up interesting ways to secure the motor bottom. I think I'll make a large curved slotted piece of metal that I can bolt the bottom of the motor into to secure it at whatever angle i want. Is that the same stuff as bluing solution?
It might be worth buying a motor base with the rubber mounts. Can't be expensive. Like this motor has. The notches in your ends look like they're made for this.
Might be something to look into down the line. The motor base has the same spacing as my old motor base which is nice because I can swap out the motors easily as I please using the same mounting plate I made. The 1.5 hp motor is too long for the cabinet tho so I'll need to modify the back plate so it has an extension. Any idea how to make a rounded/bowl shaped piece of metal? I don't have an English wheel... I will order some gun blue. I am also on the lookout for some nice 1/4-20 and 10-24, 3/4" knurled thumb screws for the base. But they want $4 each on fleabay/amazon. I'll check my local bolt shop and see if they can do better. Also, I just discovered threaded insert rivets and they are fantastic. I'm actively looking for things to use them on
If the steel part isn't some heat treated super critical part you can heat to a dull red and dunk in used motor oil. That said, I've had some success with phosphate conversion coating on steel and iron parts with a dark grey to black finish that will absorb oil. The selenium cold gun blues tend to promote rust when used for some reason.
Sounds like good practice with some scrap bronze on that LATHE you own! Sure it will cost you 200bucks in time, but this is the game we choose to play!
Haha yes I could try make them but I'm not sure my machining skills are up to that yet. I'll check my local specialty bolt shop sometime this week. Gun blue rusts?? I thought it was supposed to protect against rust? I started spray painting parts. I really like the hammered paint. I am doing copper and black. Whats a shot bag? A bag with buck shot in it? Or something else?
