Creepy vid. But yes I see the resemblance. Thanks! I was wondering. My galvanized fence has some spots of rust on it. Can I just sand those areas off with sand paper and then use rustoleum cold galvanized spray to repair the fence? Or will this not be equivalent to factory galvanizing?
It will never be as good as the real stuff, but the cold crap in a can is as good as substituent that you can do on your own. It's either that or get out the shovel. I showed my insurance company all the hail marks on my nice stained cedar fence when turning in recent receipts. Looks like they want to cut me another check! I've already got galvanized 3inch poles concreted and the metal hardware holding the stringers and pickets. So changing out the entire fence with some fresh cedar sounds like a winner idea to me! Slap some more cabot on it and I'm good for another 10years. I do have a rental property on one side of me with a fence issue. Get this BS! They come to me and tell me I need to pay HALF of $2800 for that section of fence! It's just 40feet long! I told them they get ONE CHANCE to entertain my offer. I did the math and it would cost $900 in materials (no metal poles on that side, just rotten 4x4's) So I offered $450bucks and I would help their handyman install a proper fence. Their answer was NOPE! So I did the nice thing and told them they can foot the entire bill. I'm out! I love it when people get GREEDY! They could have had half of something, now they can have all of NOTHING! Rule here is smooth side belongs to the guy NOT PAYING! And that smooth side is facing me! I was under zero obligation to offer one red cent! People sure are DUMB!
The crap in the rattle can I keep my wind turbine running with. Every year I give it a couple pumps of bearing grease and rattle can trimclad. Rust and all I spray it all. Trim clad paint, in my opinion likes a little bit of rust.
Put the bearings on. Got a question. Do you think it matters if I put the bearing that supports the back of the blade above the 4 bearings that pinch the blade from the side or if i put it below the 4 bearings? See the first 2 pics.
Keep the side supporting bearings closer together. It will keep the balde from deflecting and wandering. The blade is plenty stiff for the wider thrust bearing spacing. Best, Kelly
Does it matter if the back solo wheel is above or below though? I'm trying to figure out where to mount it from and I don't want to mount it upside down and get bad performance from it.
I use my bandsaw for scrolling work with metal and I use it for resaw of wood. Never will I go above half inch wide blade. I only have a 1/2 hp 1942 Do-all. It has fixed side guides and back bearings that have bearing shields that the blade runs on the side of the bearing. For the last 78 years she's been cutting without side bearings. Wheel tracking in my opinion is number one. Forcing wheel tracking using guides is a workaround. What I mean about this, you should almost be able to take a quarter cut feedspeed without any guidance. I guess bearings have gotten so cheap, using them is fine. But… there should not be too much side thrust. In my opinion any blade that is wider than half inch should have very little side thrust bearing assisting in guiding. Pictures below are showing a 3/8-3 tooth per inch blade. I set the Side guides to be 0.003"away from each side from the true neutral position of tracking. The back bearing doesn't get touched unless there is about 2 pounds of force pushed on the blade. Tensioning and tracking is very important. I did enter my bandsaw into a Internet competition a few years back. It did have the most consistent re-saw capability and also had the least deviation of thickness. But… It did take me three times longer as some of the guys had 4 to 6 times the horsepower, and up to double blade speed. The only consistent stipulations was everybody had to use the same blade from the same manufacture. Some of the argument was over kerf vs blade and silly jigs. The saw that came out on top, was mine for accuracy, but mine took 20 minutes where some of the others took us six or seven minutes.
90% of my band saw use is same as OMM and I just use hardened upper and lower guides like OMM pictured. I haven't had wider than 1/2" blade on mine for several years and use bimetal blades and the thickest is .035". As far as tooth count and style everyone has there favorites. I'll cut up to 1/4" thick mild steel on mine but most is 1/8" and thinner. It cuts very quickly. For resizing from large sheets of similar thickness, I just use a bimetal blade in a hand held recip saw as opposed to trying to horse the sheet around on the band saw. Not quite as fast but with the the right speed selected, you might be surprised. If I have to do a lot of resizing, out comes the plasma cutter. Blade speed is very important. What is the slowest FPM cutting speed you can select? Like cutting anything.....it's feed and speed. Best, Kelly
175 fpm is the lowest speed it goes. All the info about my saw is here: http://www.alloyavenue.com/vb/archive/index.php/t-8980.html https://lh6.googleusercontent.com/-...oDs/w607-h1075-no/IMG_20130902_181811_411.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-..._A5M/w402-h712-no/IMG_20130902_182058_056.jpg https://lh3.googleusercontent.com/-...j8/w1909-h1077-no/IMG_20130902_181841_290.jpg
Very interesting guides you have. I'm hoping mine work. I didn't have a mill to square it up properly but the bearings seem to sit fairly straight so I think it may work as intended. Also I figured "what the hell," if I am redoing the band saw I should just friggen redo it from the ground up. So I welded a new solid base for it and started prepping a 1/4" thick plate for the saw to sit firmly on without wobbling. I got link belts for it and plan to add brushes to clean the wheels, move the power switch up to an easily reachable position, I installed a new tension spring, got new tires that are not rubber, made the new bearing blade guides, will add a 6 inch riser block to be able to resaw larger items, get new larger blades etc etc. At some point I want to upgrade the motor to 1.5 to 2 hp from the 3/4 hp I have now which is barely strong enough and frequently stalls out if you push too hard. Of course tracking down a decent motor is not easy. For that matter I'd love to get a 2nd motor and beef my south bend up which also struggles with a 3/4 hp motor (!!?) I'm also considering making a table enlargement add on because the table is a tad small and a set of nice guides I can clamp things to in order to cut things super accurately. I might add a quick release tension bar if I can figure out how the hell they work. And of course a kick ass new paint job when finally finished. This project should keep me busy for a couple weeks for sure. Pics of the stand. I'll probably sort out sides for it, or cannibalize the old wobbly base to fit over the new one.
Ok I need some help. I found a really nice 230v 1 phase motor at the junk yard. The shaft spins smoothly and there is no burning smell. It even had the plastic wrap stuck over it. I think it is new and unused (a bit muddy from sitting on the ground) I bought it for $3 But now I need help wiring it up. I'm trying to figure out this external capacitor it mentions on the label and where the wires should go.
It's a capacitor "run" motor, so you'll need to buy a 25uF "Motor run capacitor". There are motor "run" caps and "start" caps with run capacitors being a heavier continuous duty rated and constructed from thicker foil internally. Start caps are lighter duty and are only used when starting to give some extra torque and typically have a centrifugal switch to disconnect them once the motor is running. So there's probably a cover on the end bell with the terminals 1,2 & 3 under it and you need to connect a capacitor across terminals 2 & 3 with mains connected to terminals 1 & 2. Other single phase AC mains motor types would be the cap start/cap run motor with two capacitors that you would see on air compressors that need high starting torque, whereas the motor you have is similar to things like bench grinders or bandsaws that are easy to spin up.
Interesting I didn't know that. So the motors with 2 humps on the side are 2 capacitors for higher starting torque? Is this what I'm looking for? https://www.amazon.com/Motor-Capacitor-Round-Volt-12715/dp/B00C0YT16I Also how did you know it was a run cap I needed instead of a start? So this motor will be good for my bandsaw or lathe?
Yes two humps or a box on the side with two caps inside it. That Capacitor in the link is spot on: a run capacitor of 25 microfarads and a higher voltage rating than the 230VAC you plan to run it off. If you had needed a start capacitor there would have been two caps shown on the diagram on your motor label, a start and a run cap. you can't have only a start cap as it's always used in conjunction with a run capacitor. It should run the lathe or bandsaw with a caveat: if there's a lot of inertial to overcome, the motor overload may trip on starting, like a 12" disc sander I've seen, so the quick and dirty solution is to fit a higher current overload for the initial current surge until it's all spinning.
Oh I understand now. The wiring diagram too. Motor on the left cap on right between 1 and 2. I'll post pics before I blow up my box after wiring it. Would this motor be good for the lathe too or just the band saw? I'm surprised the capacitor wasn't on the motor but I'm sure I can find a little electrical box for it to live in.
If the motor is going to live inside an enclosure then it's considered acceptable to use a strap clamp to attach it to the motor and have an insulation boot over insulated terminals and a sheath over the wires(double insulation). If the motor is outside the equipment then a small cover box is good practice.
