First furnace, what a good material to use for the floor?

Discussion in 'Furnaces and their construction' started by Alexander Madsen, Feb 9, 2020.

  1. Hi Denis, sorry if I said it that way, :oops: I'm just concerned about efficiency and fuel consumption, your figures are very helpful as I know I'm in the approximate ballpark now.

    I kind of got interested in replying to Kelly who was apologizing for his thread derailing ways beforehand.
     
  2. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Sure I can add more air with more fuel and therein lies the problem. Too rapid transit through the furnace results in a cold furnace despite high fuel consumption. That is why (I think) there is a sweet spot, likely slightly different for each furnace, where the peak heating occurs. Too little fuel and there is not enough energy available despite likely good burn efficiency. Too much fuel and too rapid transit and a prolonged melt.

    I have measured my furnace externally, but it has been a while. I think it gets up around 450 to 500 F.

    Denis
     
  3. I have hit that exact problem without the air nozzle and refractory disc, it went very loud too so some kind of pressure oscillation was happening. Before the extra fibre blanket I was hitting 360 deg C or 680 deg F with 2.5" or 65mm of dense refractory.
     
  4. OMM

    OMM Silver

    Both of you guys are giving amazing information. Whether you realize it or not.

    A hot face is like drywall in a house.
    A vapour barrier behind the drywal and taping all drywall joints, prevents pressurized leaks (a well sealed up brick and mortar).
    Insulation and more insulation....
    Then a good outer envelope.

    I definitely guilty of skipped step two. This is where I get to live and report on shortcomings or benefits.
     
  5. I inadvertently have step two as the beer keg wraps round the castable refractory and the fibre blanket was added as an afterthought over the keg skin after that. Even so it's not really pressure tight as fuel can leak out the base of the furnace.
     
    OMM likes this.
  6. OMM

    OMM Silver

    I too apologize for the De-rail... so much good information is flowing... it is hard not to respond. Fair??? And sorry.

    The keg shell is a great step two. Insulation and then an outer envelope. Free air between the outer insulation and the exterior envelope is considered insulation. This is by design, fits most attics. I left free air syphon in my outer envelope from the bace up. Since my last upgrade, I've also vented the lid.

    I also teach a home renovation/Energy loss prevention/innovation class.
     
    Last edited: Feb 13, 2020
  7. Making progress. Purchased a welder to make my tools. This is a great hobby. Requires buying lots of other tools and machines. I got a used Lincon 155 amp wire feed welder. For now flux core, but can be upgraded to gas.
     
  8. Petee716

    Petee716 Gold Banner Member

    This hobby is how I got my first experience welding too. Several others of us as well. It opens a lot of doors. Flux core is a useful welder, especially if you want to/need to weld outdoors, but you won't regret getting the gas upgrade for it.

    Pete
     
  9. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Go gas! You'll have a much easier time and your welds will be 1000% better.

    Yes this hobby can be VERY expensive! I dropped a few grand for a tig machine.
    Best thing I've ever spent money on.
     
    dennis likes this.
  10. OMM

    OMM Silver

    I would hate to tell you what my dream portable machine would be. But we're all allowed to dream... ESAB 205.

    My wife gave me the shake down and said use your welder 10 times more before making this big decision. I currently run A ESAB DTA 200 (which is only TIG & ARC). She is/was 90% correct! I hate when that happens!

    My big DTA weights 600 pounds compared to 49 pounds.

    Here is a review.... you don't want know the $$$$.$$

     
    Last edited: Feb 21, 2020
  11. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Arent they made in china these days? I know the cheaper units are.
     
  12. OMM

    OMM Silver

    I believe 90% of the guts are made in China (hush-hush). but what electronic is not.... wallymart closed the gap of rich and poor with disposables. A new lifestyle was born.

    My trade has put factories in to almost lights out facilities.

    The rich got richer off the poor. In the last 30 years the 25%er's became the 1%er's.

    Slave labour was abolished many years ago in North America. Many fook in North America don't support this attitude but will still purchase from Walmart a Smart phone or computer or TV… A, it didn't happen here is overlooked as we price match for the cheapest.

    I am guilty almost 600% more than the average consumer. I actually made, help design, modified, built the tooling for the #1 selling minivan, Stow and go seating in North America and built the dies twice. But this was my job. I directly (or indirectly) trained Mexican or offshore manufacturing to produce product to North American specs.

    First one for North America on the second one to Mexico to reduce the price for North American purchasers. Under the north American free trade agreement which includes Mexico, USA and Canada.

    I also taught robots human hand control for welding. out went 100 jobs and somebody got richer, product got cheeper. There were winners and loosers.

    The 1%ers get to dictate how and where their product is made. I will put a small number on this, but I'm betting of the vehicles that are assembled in the US, less then 70% of the parts are made in the US. The UAW handed out a bumper sticker that said," hungry and out of work, eat your Honda.!"

    I hope I didn't get too political. I tried to stick to the facts. sorry about the rant!
     
    Last edited: Feb 22, 2020
  13. China makes whatever quality you want to buy. They do very high-quality products now, you just have to ask/pay for quality product.

    Alex
     

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