Things you have learnt from mentors that seem insignificant but have stood you well over time, almost second nature. Backing a thread up before trying to engage it (you can feel it settle and reduces the chance of cross threading). Backing off a gate valve by a 1/4 turn after fully opened (reduces the chance of it having bound-up when you need it off in a hurry!) Anyone have any little things like that you don't even think about but are second nature thanks too old experienced shoulders?
Don't start torquing screws until they're all started else the last one won't fit. Punch 4 or 5 holes in the groove on top of a can of wood stain so it will drain, and don't paint the damned label on the paint can. Drain a hose by throwing one end over a rafter or tree limb. Stop trying to blow through it ninny. Pete
As is everything I post here. I used split patterns until I visited Bob Pearson in Kansas. The problem I had was that some of my split patterns broke when I pulled them from the sand. Bob is the guy who borrowed the original Cretors popcorn engine patterns from the Cretors factory in Chicago, and he still has those. I saw many intricately shaped patterns at Bob's place, and every one of them was one piece including the intricate No.06 engine frame pattern (photo below), so I learned something new that day. I figured that if a commercial foundry used one-piece patterns for everything to make thousands of engines, then there must be some merit to doing it that way. And yes, I understand we are not running commercial foundries, and everyone has their preferred methods, but just so people know, there is another way, and I find it more accurate, less of a parting line, makes a stronger pattern that does not break so easily, and it is much easier to keep up with one piece than two. Different strokes for different folks I guess. Edit: Before I visited Bob's shop, I basically (and wrongly) assumed that most or all patterns were split; so seeing the Cretors patterns was a real eye-opener for me. .
All depends on the part to be cast. I certainly would not make a split pattern for one that could be made whole, but I also would not make a whole pattern if the molding was easier if it were split. Also, different processes for different castings comes to mind. From my mindset, it's best to analyze the part needing to be produced then figure out the best way to pattern and cast it. While keeping in mind the materials (and your skill set) readily available to you. No real right or wrong here, just tomatoes and tomotos.
I use some split patterns mostly because I dont trust my equipment to be able to Make a match plate without getting a misalignment. if you are breaking split patterns, you might not be making them well enough ... I cast mine out of Zamak so the original wooden pattern only get used once, then gets carefully stored QED V/r HT1 P.S. kinda shoots a hole in the blanket statement
Dirty hands, the tool you always have in your hand. Often a accrete rubbing is needed. I have tried chalk and pencil, marking dye and paint but I always return to a dirty hand. In the first picture. My hand is as clean as the old paws have been in years. “I was talked into helping with thanksgiving dishes”. In the second picture. I handled a few tools just for the dirt. If you use your hand you get a more accurate rubbing than other methods because you control where and the amount of pressure applied. The last picture is of the rubbing of a lenze assemble. It was chosen just because it was handy for this demonstration. Joe
I've had a lot of fun coping down and getting a mould but there is a place for a split pattern or match plate. Compression plumbing fittings, tighten but leave a part turn on the nut for if the fitting leaks (it never does, we over estimate how much that nut needs) I don't eat snow, white yellow or otherwise. I'm pretty sure HT1 accounts for shrinkage but a good point.
Close enough for Zamak2 + Brass http://www.starrett.com/metrology/p...aight-edges-parallels/Precision-Rules/C378-12 V/r HT1
Here's one for ya.. Some of us use pool shock (HTH) for degasing aluminum. I just found out that some of them are stabilized using a cyanide compound. pass the word and make everyone aware of this
Has anyone told Jason?? Or is he too busy with BPs to worry about pool shock.... I have used a foseco de-gas treatment for al and it was nasty, chloride presumably producing hydrochloride and burnt the hell out of my throat. Turns out they stopped making it about 30 years ago for safety reasons. Cyanide is an alloying agent in steel I believe?
It depends a lot on which particular cyanide chemical is used: sodium ferrocyanide is used in table salt to prevent caking. Iron ferrocyanide (Prussian blue) is an antidote for thallium and cesium poisoning.
Just looked at the safety data sheets, no it doesn't seem like anything at all. Breaks down to co, co2, and nitrogen oxides when burned... kinda sounds like a great degasser to me. Maybe it was a different form they were speaking of in class today. I would have paid more attention but I'm on my 3rd 16 hour long shift (only getting 4 hours of sleep a day) in a row.
