Tobho's HT1-Inspired Cement Mixer Muller Build

Discussion in 'Sand Mullers' started by Tobho Mott, Mar 22, 2018.

  1. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Thanks J, I hope these will work ok. Since you asked, here are detailed pics and expalnations in the form of a video that shows pretty much everything about this upate from patternmaking to finished clamps. :D

    Also included: a look at the furnace.



    Jeff
     
    Melterskelter and Al2O3 like this.
  2. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    Jeff,
    The only gotcha on the saw table is you might have to stack a couple of washers or shims under one side of the saw or the other as you tighten the screws to get the blade at a perfect 90 dgrees to the table surface. This will depend on how much you warp the plate with your welds (remember where I said I wasn't a welder... I warped mine a bit ;) )

    Love the clamps they look like they turned out perfect for the job.

    CBB
     
  3. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Good tip, I'll keep that in mind when I eventually get around to building one...

    Thanks again, I think the clamps are gonna work well.

    Jeff
     
  4. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Nice work Jeff and always like to see tools making tools. I think you owe us a lost foam subforum thread :)

    A couple questions for you. As I recall, you are using glass bead media for mold material. Is that correct? I was looking at those nice big pictures over at AA, and maybe it was the light, but it looked like there may be some mold media on the surface of the castings. Was there? Also, when you demolded, it looked like there was clumping of the mold material. Can you tell if this was break down of the glass bead media or just caused byproducts of vaporizing the foam?

    I ask because I've looked at using blasting media for mold material (aluminum oxide in my case) because it is readily available in whatever mesh you might want, but it was always =>$1/lb, and I needed 100lbs of it which didn't sit well compared to free sand and mud. The other thing was I always get sand embedded in my castings when I don't use mud and that wreaks absolute havoc with cutting and machine tools, so even if I could achieve better finishes with abrasive blasting media without using mud, I'd have to think twice before doing so.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  5. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Definitely some shimmery glass bits still stuck to the castings in the pix you referred to, that is correct. I'll take a wire wheel drill bit to it and it should come right off.

    I'd use sand instead of the glass bead if I already had some that is as fine. It would be cheaper for sure. I had not yet found a source for the fine silica yet when I bought the bead medium a few years ago...

    I haven't noticed sand in my lost foam castings, but I also don't have a lathe or a milling machine. My drill press and hand drill had no issues though, the bits I used to drill the bolt holes still seem fine. I thought about mudding the inside of the clamp where it would close up on the pipe, but I didn't want to wait for it to dry when it was finally good casting weather out...

    I'll post something under lost foam, good point. Although people might be better off not learning bad habits from my "quick and dirty" approach... :D

    Edit - the clumping is from repeated use for lost foam, I'm sure it's the vapours that got trapped in the "sand" doing that. It's been used a few times since I last sifted it and aired it out because my lost foam sieve and my sand scoop were missing all last year. Normally before that happened I would sift it all to declump it and let some of the vapour escape right after shakeout while the sand was still pretty hot. Seems to make a big difference, as the sand now seems to stick to itself more.

    Jeff
     
    Last edited: Apr 25, 2018
  6. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    For me, it's really more a matter of on the surface, not in the casting but even with wire wheeling the exterior, there still can be some imbedded sand that persists.....so fo now, I remain a mud disciple.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  7. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I'm definitely not trying to talk anyone out of using mud, I've seen what you're able to do with lost foam, and if you watch the video you'll see I encouraged viewers who want to use lost foam for more precise applications to check out your stuff...

    I'm just too impatient to sit around watching mud dry myself most of the time; for me LF is a technique I only for one offs (well, sometimes for 8-offs too I guess...), goofy fun stuff, and quick 'n dirty "has to work but doesn't have to look pretty or be particularly precise" jobs... :D

    For the record, if I were making parts needing precise machining that I could not sand cast, I'd use the lost foam with mud method too.

    Jeff
     
  8. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Well, I got one scraper installed long enough to check how it works with some loose sand in the muller. I wound up having to trim it a little to tweak where it was pushing the sand, but I had made it a little oversized for this reason. Seemed easier than building more adjustable holders for the scrapers, though I may live to regret that decision later if I end up having to rebuild parts. Technically it is adjustable I guess, but that would mean drilling some new holes.

    A bunch of loose sand did leak underneath the wear plate when I tested the new scraper, took me a quite a while to get it to leak back out. I know when there's molding sand in there it will probably plug up the gap, but I was surprised how fast it was draining down past the plate... Anyone want to try and talk me out of trying to seal that seam somehow? Maybe with some silicone or epoxy or something? Billy Mays' Mighty Putty?

    Here's a pic from when I was figuring out where to bolt the scraper on to the lost foam muller clamps, before trimming it down:

    scraper1testfit.jpg

    There's a thin gap between the scraper and the floor and wall.

    Also, I was gonna go pick up the fine silica I ordered on Saturday to eventually make/mull some new sand with, but we lost power for 16 hours on Friday night, so after a late night spent bailing out my basement 5 gallons at a time, despite having a nasty cold, to try and save the new furnace getting flooded, until my phone/flashlight died and I gave up and stumbled through the darkness to my bed, we decided going out to buy a small generator to run the sump pump and make coffee would be a better use of our time... Something we should have done 15 years ago...

    I'll be picking up the sand after work on Thursday instead, since the pottery supply place where I'm getting it is right around the corner from the office and my carpool partner isn't coming in to work that day, so I'll have my car. Hoping to to pick up the bentonite tomorrow, finally found place that sells it cheaper (as pond sealer) than the pottery supply place does. FYI the brand name I finally found is "benseal," in case that helps anyone else who's having trouble finding it. I don't know is if it's Southern or Western bentonite, but then neither did the guy at the pottery shop when I asked them about their far more expensive bentonite.

    Jeff
     
  9. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Jeff, I would bet that the actual molding sand will not leak between the wear plate and the tub. Cutting a large hole in the tub with a hole saw would let the sand out should it leak. I did cut two such holes, but they aren't needed on my muller as the molding sand tightly seals the small seam.
     
  10. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    It sounds like you are close to mulling sand. As a newbie, I find that determining the correct moisture content to be quite challenging. The squeeze test is widely advocated as a test of green strength and moisture. However, I have found that taking a large handful of sand and ramming it into an inside corner of my molding bench and then using a thin knife to cut out a roughly 2 by 3 inch block of rammed sand provides a nice sample for testing breaking strength and compression strength. I find that I can sense a wider range in strength and compression when making comparisons this way as opposed to a simple squeeze. I also noted that too wet sand feels cold (has greater heat conductivity) than sand of proper moisture content.

    I am simply suggesting you consider these factors as you find a system that works for you.
    (I will be doing a couple of moisture bake outs on moles of my new sand and post it in the thread you started on sand moisture content.)
     
  11. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Sounds interesting. When I make new sand I'll try to pay attention to keeping track of how much water as % weight I'm adding too.

    Like I said I'm sure actual molding sand will plug that gap, I'm more worred about losing half of my dry powdery materials down that crack before it has a chance to really become molding sand. I can see the losing a significant amount that way. Only temporarily, sure, but in a way that would mean it's not as much fun to use for making new sand as i hope.

    Jeff
     
  12. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Silicone rubber should seal the gap for now.

    The purpose of the bakeout is not so much aimed at providing a formula for new sand as much as it will provide a way down the line to see where you stand and to check to see if the subjective methods used (squeeze or ram) are allowing drifting towards increasing or decreasing wetness.

    A formula for water would possibly work for the very first mulling of new sand, but due to the large amount of moisture evaporated by hot metal, replacement of water will depend on subjective testing perhaps occasionally checked by bakeout. Unfortunately bakeout is too cumbersome as an on-the-fly way to see if moisture is OK.
     
  13. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Another word for word copy of an AA post I just made:

    update: the Benseal product appears to come as 8 mesh granules, so perhaps not quite the fine powder I was hoping for. :(

    And it is sodium bentonite, fwiw.

    I may check with a feed & seed place nearby, I've read that people feed bentonite to their cows or some such, so maybe they will have the more powdery stuff, and/or maybe it'll be the calcium bentonite so I can use 50/50 of the 2 types as I've seen recommended before.

    Jeff
     
  14. Al Puddle

    Al Puddle Silver

    The feed and seed business is where I purchased bentonite, around $5 per 50 lbs. It was sodium bentonite, not calcium bentonite which I think is the western version. Apparently i'ts used to facilitate grain movement in augers and such and the cows don't mind. Very, very small amounts help coagulate particles in the beer making process. Just say'n.
     
  15. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I just found out the place that sells Benseal also sells QuikGel, made by the same company, which is 200 mesh sodium bentonite from Wyoming, same stuff just ground up nice and fine I guess. They are asking $16CDN for 50#, should be interesting to see what the feed and seed place wants. And which type it will be. If they have any. I looked into the brew-your-own beer and wine places a while back, they want like $5 or something for just a very small envelope that's meant to be used for clarifying homemade alcoholic beverages, as you say. Not a viable option for us, I'm afraid...

    Jeff
     
  16. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    FWIW the Southern bentonite I got from a foundry supply (15 USD for 50 pounds) is ground as fine as bagged cement---not premix, but the actual Portland cement.
     
  17. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Btw, one more newbie clue I am tuning in on when mulling sand and trying to get the moisture "right" is how much and on what part of the wheel the sand starts to adhere and build up. On my muller, when the sand is too dry, the wheel completely cleans itself. Too wet, and the sand covers half or more of the surface but the outside half stills cleans itself. Just right, and the inside 1/5th gets some clumps and the outside 4/5ths is clean. Not absolutely reliable, but pretty good. I am sure the amount and location of clumping would vary depending on muller build specifics. I mention this only as something to consider as it took me a while to notice it on my own.

    I have been mulling 250 pounds of sand each day the last few days. So, it's been a good time to observe what is going on.
     
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  18. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    See, now that is exactly the kind of quick 'n dirty telltale clue I was hoping people would post more of over in the "right amount of moisture" thread: http://forums.thehomefoundry.org/in...e-right-amount-of-moisture-for-greensand.232/

    It's probably different for every muller, but now that I've read this I'll certainly be tracking any correspondence between the sand sticking to the wheel in certain ways with days when my sand seems to be working best. I might not have thought to take note of that otherwise, at least not right away. Thanks!

    Jeff
     
  19. If you have any water well drillers around they also use powdered bentonite.
     
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  20. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Thanks. I already picked up a 50# bag branded "quik gel" the other day for under $20CDN including tax, from a company here called Canpipe. I think it is the stuff you're talking about, used/marketed as a drilling fluid. If the stuff that puffs out of the corners of the bag anytime I touch it are any indication, it's quite finely powdered.

    Turns out the 'Benseal' I was considering is more like kitty litter consistency (and priced the same as quik gel). I thought it was funny when my friend who's used it to seal a pond told me that... I told her, "you know, it probably is kitty litter, that stuff is made of bentonite too." I wonder if they just put the same stuff into differently labelled bags?

    I probably already mentioned this, but this stuff is sodium bentonite. Haven't found any calcium bentonite. Yet...

    Edit - My carpool buddy is off today so I have my car at the office. So today is the day, I'll be picking up the fine silica on my way home, the pottery supply place I ordered it from is right around the corner.

    Jeff
     

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