Antique Drink Shaker Project

Discussion in 'Sand Casting' started by Patrick-C, Mar 5, 2021.

  1. Patrick-C

    Patrick-C Silver

    So I am doing a custom job for a guy in PA. I am going to be casting parts for antique drink shakers from somewhere between 1900 and 1920. I just got some parts to work with in the mail today. Here are the pictures. Tell me what you think. Look pretty easy?
    This is one of the machines.
    The parts came packed well.
    The glass are for me to reference off of. The little cap is going to be cast in copper, and the leg there is to be cast iron.
    Thought I'd share, Patrick

    Attached Files:

    Tobho Mott likes this.
  2. Jason

    Jason Gold

    That's a serious piece of hardware just to shake a drink. Just make sure my martini is REALLY DRY and chuck a few olives at it!
  3. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    Amazing device and I now know, after Googling, there were a good many designs made. Crazy!

    Looks challenging. It looks like you were given raw castings as patterns and not parts of previously-working machine? Raw castings would be better. My limited experience with pasts from a working machine has always been that the castings had draft removed in various places and dings and divots that needed to be fixed. Not insurmountable by any means. Just extra work. Looks like a fun project. Please keep us posted.

    This is a one-off or multiples?

  4. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Neat machine. Are you making the whole thing, or just a few select parts to it???
  5. Patrick-C

    Patrick-C Silver

    For starts I am just casting a bunch of those little caps from copper. And a few of those kinda trapezoid shaped legs from cast iron. He said he will defiantly have me cast more parts in the future though.
    Yes the red one is not the same one as the umm one I'm casting legs for, but it is the only one I had a full pic of. The one with the leg I am casting is one he just got, so it wasn't assembled before he sent me the part.
    Yeah he was worried about his parts being beat up too. So I am going to 3d print the patterns for molding. I will make sure I keep you guys posted too.
  6. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    The legs look relatively easy—-no shrinks likely. But pulling sand from the roundish corners of the cutout might be tricky in green sand. I’d be tempted to use silicate-bound sand for that part.

    I imagine you will omit the countersunk holes as they should just be machined into the part. They would pull better in silicate if not omitted.

    Printing your own pattern will allow you to control draft—-nice. I can’t imagine any damage to the original if used as a pattern. I’d use magnetic “draw spikes.”

    just chatting...

  7. Tobho Mott

    Tobho Mott Gold Banner Member

    Cool, good luck with it!

  8. Patrick-C

    Patrick-C Silver

    Thanks. I finished designing the first lid today, now I have it printing.
    I have to admit you are way more experienced than me. I don't have silicate-bound sand so I will see how it goes with green sand. Those holes could be a problem but I will have to look at them some more to see if I want to leave them out. And I don't think I would damage the original pattern either but with printing one I can customize it and cut down the risk of damaging it.
    SharedScreenshot.jpg SharedScreenshot3.jpg
    Making progress, Patrick:)

    Attached Files:

  9. Melterskelter

    Melterskelter Gold Banner Member

    I am sure that you want to keep your process as simple as possible. Green sand may work just fine. As seen in a couple videos recently posted by ironsides, it may be possible to insert little pins into sand in the corners of the cutout to reinforce the sand and help hold it in place as you draw the pattern.

    One other idea and then I will shut up. On these very thin iron parts (are they between 1/8 and 1/4" thick?) the iron will cool very quickly in the sand and is highly likely to chill becoming hard white iron. That will make it hard to machine. That can be easily solved by annealing the parts in pottery kiln after wrapping them in stainless foil with a patch of paper to consume oxygen in the pouch. Heating them to 1750 for an hour and then turning off the kiln will convert them to very soft iron. I do this commonly with small parts and it works very reliably.

    At some point in the future you may want to try silicate-bound sand. It is really great for small detailed parts.

  10. Patrick-C

    Patrick-C Silver

    Thank you for the tips. I appreciate it. I never would have guessed that is how you anneal cast iron.
    More updates coming on this project in the next couple of days, but now I have to buckle down.

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