Burnout in a ceramic kiln ?

Discussion in 'Investment casting Ceramic shell method' started by Chris silliker, Oct 8, 2024.

  1. Hey guys if I were to burnout in a ceramics kiln how would I capture the wax and stop the wax from coming into contact with the elements on the kiln ? I would like to avoid using propane for now where I live if possible. Thanks in advance and sorry if it's not the brightest question lol
     
  2. Tops

    Tops Silver

    Hi Chris, here is an excerpt from Paragon on a side-loading burnout kiln:

    https://www.paragonkilns.com/products/w14

    Optional Wax Tray and Grate

    WAX TRAY AND GRATE, W13/W14, 12.5" x 12.5". Leave the heavy-duty grate in the W-14 kiln throughout the firing. Remove the wax tray at 300F/148C without disturbing the molds on the grate. The grate is carbon steel, and the pan is stainless steel.

    If the kiln you are thinking about is top-loading this type of arrangement could be more difficult. I am not an investment casting person, the folks who do this more often may have more to say about it, to avoid kiln damage or excessive smoke in the work area.
     
  3. nihnimal

    nihnimal Lead

    To capture wax during burnout in a ceramics kiln and keep it from hitting the heating elements, start by venting your kiln effectively. Some folks recommend using a collection tray below your mold to catch the melted wax as it drips down, which you can later clean out. It's best to use a stainless-steel tray if possible, as it can withstand the kiln's heat without warping. Another method is to create a small vent hole in the top or slightly crack the kiln lid to allow the smoke to escape without overheating the kiln’s interior—just avoid opening it too much to prevent flames from forming if the wax vapor ignites
    Alternatively, a "boiling out" method can work well before placing your piece in the kiln. Essentially, you dip the mold in hot water to melt off most of the wax, and then you do a final burnout. Although this won’t get rid of all the wax, it reduces the buildup inside the kiln, making it a good choice if you’re worried about residue on the elements
    For extra precautions, consider wrapping any critical kiln components in foil or other protective material to shield them from potential splatters. It’s a trial-and-error process for many, so take it slowly and adjust based on how your specific setup responds.
     
  4. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Reminds me of the time I was heating my shells to temp for pouring bronze. I saw black smoke coming out of the kiln. As soon as I lifted the lid, BIG POOF! I think I lost an eyebrow. What happened was I still had a lot of wax in the shell so that was the fuel, the heat was from the kiln and when I opened the lid, in came the oxygen. So collecting inside a closed up furnace honestly is a bad idea. My first choice is boil, but even that is not without risks. Yeah I know the wax costs more than the metal so I understand the desire to collect as much as you can. Be willing to waste some for the sake of an eyebrow! ;)
     
  5. Dick Morris

    Dick Morris Copper

    I use a front loading kiln, I think it was originally meant for glass fusing. I use 3D printed castable resin so there isn't any wax to be collected. I leave the door cracked very slightly. My understanding it not only do you want to allow the smoke to escape, but you want some oxygen to enter so the wax or castable resin will burn. With wax, some like to melt the wax with the sprue hole down and then turn the sprue hole up for burnout. For the castable resin I don't think the direction of the sprue hole is critical because all of the resin burns out, it doesn't liquify first.
     

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