Form Kastolite using Styrofoam?

Discussion in 'Furnaces and their construction' started by Tops, Feb 17, 2023.

  1. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    I ended up pulling the top piece and plinth form off at 15 hours after mixing at 70 F / 21 C.
    Construction wedges and composite de-molding wedges against the plywood and a heat gun to unbind the hot glue between the plywood and white plastic outer chimney tube.
    a-The plinth had a small dry/unflowed corner at its top/form's bottom
    b-the chimney has a small crack that coincides with the split in the outer chimney form
    c-the lid portion nearest the CNC spindle has a spot that did not have enough material, about 1/4" (6mm) shy.

    ** Should I patch that letter 'c' portion of the lid with same material while it is still 'green' or go back with something meant to perform better when thinner? Refractory mortar? **

    Thanks!

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  2. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Think I'd just use your castable to patch. Is the crack at "b" really a crack or just a witness mark from the mold seem? What's the material used for inner chimney mold form? Foam?

    Best,
    Kelly
     
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  3. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    Thanks Kelly.
    It is a crack on the top horizontal surface of chimney and then something that follows down where the witness mark should be. Not 100% sure how deep it goes from the top.

    Inner form is a heavy carboard tube recycled from work and waxed before pouring. In retrospect I should have split or weakened this for easier de-molding. I was so excited it was the correct OD I did not think about that. The outer white tube form is plastic but had to be slit to make its ID the correct chimney OD. Had I not had the slit and hot melt glue joint I'd been in bigger trouble removing it :)
     
  4. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    De-molded at 23 hours.

    The plastic and Styrofoam, both with a layer of #2 paste wax, released from the refractory. I did manage to pull out a few beads from the foam. The foam was not machined with draft.
    The plywood with paste wax did not release as well but did not remain stuck to the molded part.
    The cardboard tube with paste wax is stuck and the cardboard is damp. Looks like I will have to work it out.

    There are a couple non-flowed areas on the surface that were deep/down in the mold. Perhaps I need to look into some sort of vibrating table or rig it to be air-chiseled on the bottom side?

    So, when I get into using the concrete forming tubes, is it time for the clear packing tape as a release medium?


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  5. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Might be better off to just burn that out.

    There is a sweet spot in amplitude versus ferquency to get good flow. Not sure about the air chisel in this regard but if you have enough air to pull it you could probably do so with a turbine vibrator. They are in relatively expensive. A table/board mounted on springs helps excite heavier masses. Your furnace body will be heavy by comparison to your lid.

    Upward facing horizantal surfaces in contact with the mold are always problematic because of surface tension and entrained air in the refractory buoyantly works it's way to those mold surfaces. That's why your styrofoam side looks so much better. A tilted mold can help but inevitably you'll still have some bug eyes.

    Porous materials like cardboard and wood need barrier in addition to release agent. Most of the concrete tubes are waxed on the interior surface but not the outside. The outside needs barrier. The waxed side (if waxed) does not. Packing tape is cheap, smooth, easy to apply, and will work as both barrier and release, but I wipe it down with a waxy rag anyway.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
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  6. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    Thanks Kelly, I really appreciate the advice.
    Letting the cardboard burn out would be easier that what I was trying yesterday :)
    I will look into the turbines and a spring table. We use springs in a similar fashion at work so perhaps I can 'beg and borrow' some different ones to try.
     
  7. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    They are air pigs. If you dont have 10scfm+ you might be better off with an electric motor and eccentric weight.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
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  8. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

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  9. Tops

    Tops Silver Banner Member

    Thanks Kelly. I told my guy at work and he's already laying out springs and saying 'how about something like this?' :)

    Veni, vidi, (drilly, wedgey), vici...


    Drilling a ring of 3/8" spaced (9mm) by 1/8" (3.2mm) diameter holes into the 'growth rings' of the solid cardboard tube allowed it to be split, wedged, and removed with so much less effort that was exerted yesterday. Adding the screws to the holes gives a little more 'split'. I need to grind the chimney opening a bit more on the lid before I can get a shot of the pieces in place.

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