Resin burnout Temperature

Discussion in 'Lost PLA casting' started by Shopgeezer, Dec 8, 2019.

  1. Shopgeezer

    Shopgeezer Lead

    Hi to the group. I posted a 3D printing question on the Home Model Engine Machinists forum and the suggestion was made that I try it here.

    I want to start experimenting with lost PLA casting and have spent some time learning to use my new 3D printer. The general consensus on other forums is that PLA needs about 730C in a kiln to burn out completely ( as opposed to melting out ).

    Lately a new generation of 3D resin printers has arisen at a much lower price than their predecessors. Resin printers were formerly very expensive. They do a nicer print than PLA printers. I am curious what the burnout temperature would be for resin. Higher or lower than PLA? For the small engine parts I want to cast resin printing would make better models than PLA.
  2. Shopgeezer

    Shopgeezer Lead

    That should have been “Resin Burnout Temperature” in the title. Sheesh. Getting old.
  3. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Fixed it for you. Welcome. You're in luck. We have a resident lost PLA guy. I'm sure he'll be along soon.

  4. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Hi shopgeezer, good to see you here.
    Well basically burn out temperature is based on the investment material and not the pattern you are burning out.... if you are burning out plastic the flask tamp needs to hit 730c, if your burning out wax it still needs to hit 730c. There is tons of mis information floating around out there when it comes to this and alot of people have come up with their idea of what it takes to burn out the material but in the end the manufacturer of the investment or shell material will tell you what you need to burn out and cure their investment material.

    I just bought one of the anycubic photons and am looking forward to trying it out :)
  5. Shopgeezer

    Shopgeezer Lead

    So melting out wax in a pressure cooker wouldn’t work too well? I’ve never understood that but some of the older engine casting guys did it all the time. Would you bake the investment afterwards?
  6. myfordboy

    myfordboy Silver

    I have an Anycubic resin printer. I have only tried an investment casting once and I felt the resin did not burn as cleanly as PLA did.
    I asked Anycubic for their recommended burn out cycle and their reply was "You need to warm up to 950 degrees in 1.5 hours, keep it for 0.5 hours"
    I need to try it again.
  7. rocco

    rocco Silver

    There are two things going on when you "burn out, thing one: remove the wax, pla or resin pattern, the temperature required for that depends on the pattern material. Thing two: you're removing the chemically bound water from the investment material and the temperature required for that depends on the type of investment. Failure to remove all of the water can and likely will result in steam being generated during the pour which in turn will likely result in a failed casting.
  8. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    That would be for wax removal, but after that you would still need to burn out the investment....
  9. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Follow the directions for the investment you are using.. the 950 was likely C not F also have a look at this... Pretty impressive results....

  10. ddmckee54

    ddmckee54 Silver

    That looks like some neat stuff, but at $350 per kilo it's more than just a little bit out of my comfort zone.

    DavidF likes this.
  11. myfordboy

    myfordboy Silver

    Definitely C we don't use fahrenheit here!
  12. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Lol ok...
    Well only other things that come to my mind would be it was not held at the maximum burn out temp long enough for the size of the flask, or the resin just is not up to par....

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