I tried recommended procedure but I keep getting "the file is too big for the server" error. I'm doing this from an iPad so assuming that's my problem, I'm scratching my head wondering why the first photo I posted went but not others... So much for the show and tell but I'll figure out a way around it...I always do...that's how I roll... Anyway thanks everyone and especially the advice on printing. I have an extensive cnc building background as in my former life I automated a decent size factory. Bought a VMC designed my parts, machined them out and set it up with the help of inside employees. My plan is to build a larger printer for (not just bigger) multiple lost PLA pieces. If I can't figure out this photo thing I'm gonna retire...hey wait...I am retired!
E mail me the picture that you cant get to upload. You may have up to 10 pictures per post with a maximum image size of 800 x 600 and max file size of 500 kb
That's an error message I got when trying to upload a 1600 x 1200 picture. I have set my camera to take smaller pictures since it's a PITA to reduce picture size in a photo editor.
Wondering why it worked the first ime. Also the thumbnail option no longer appears as it did on my first upload... Anyway. Sent them to the email. Again. Thank you for helping.
Ok then. Something definitely up with the site. Let's try again. This time I won't let the link in the site mail. I will copy the link and send directly from my mail...
Side note...it sends the email you linked thru Safari my iOS browser. It didn't show in my mail sent folder. This time I'll send directly from my mail acct.
I've been using photo resizer for android. Its easy and free.... At 1024x768 the files are around 250kb
Yes. I sent them thru the email at a medium size. I'm assuming that knocked them down to a suitable size for the site.
That's just plain old melted wax in there. I probably should ask now that the topic came up... I'm just winging it here using common sense. If I put water in the catch pan, at 300 degrees it will be long gone before the wax drops out...? I designed the catch system and works good without. The floor stays relatively cool so I don't get smoke until I replace the pan and ramp up for the burnout. By The Way those are 6x12" flasks. The last burn was with 3 of them.
Off subject here but does anyone use a kiln for melting their metal? I'm doing aluminum and would get into more "exotic non ferrous" metals later.
I built my electric furnace but it's essentially a high power density kiln with Kanthal A1 coils and a PiD controller with SSRs. It can be seen in the link in my signature below. Melts aluminum just fine. Max recommended operating temp is 2300F for Kanthal resistive wire. I haven't tried other alloys but think it would be quite the stretch for silicon bronze and hard on the equipment. May be able to do some of the lower melt temp bronze alloys below 2000F but would likely be very slow. Best, Kelly
Yeah david I asked about the water because I too was thinking it would vanish quickly. You guys have it easy with those flask solid block investments compared to us shell folks when it comes to dewax. I dont know whats inside those flasks, but I'm pretty sure it's not a couple of pounds of wax. So if you lost it for good, it's no biggie. If you manage to collect some thats a bonus. The trick I see would be preheating the furnace and then placing the catch try and flasks in there. Next head scratcher would be when to pull the catch trays? The collected wax will boil quickly and then comes the fire! I still run dewax on shells with a flame thrower, but I'm still on the hunt for a better solution. You dewax at 300.... Ceramic shell needs to be dewaxed at 2000 and FAST. No time to pussy foot around or the shell cracks.
I just use a crab pot and steam it out, works fine for most waxes that melt in the 165 to 185'f range, but the hard carve-able stuff doesn't melt until it hits 295'f just be sure to go to burn out right after the steam out....
I dewax 300 at 3 hours then remove the flasks with my custom grabber. I remove the pan and stand, replacing the pan. At this point the wax is still pretty much out of the trees except for any puddling inside. The pan shows the intact color of the wax mixed with the spue wax. The recommended temperature to breakdown according to the factory is 200F. I understand there are additives to bring it back but wonder what the sprue wax will do to the mix... I saved it for reuse if it's advisable. Next step is burnout as a slight drooling of residual wax will drip from the flasks. I guess I could keep them at 300 a little longer but I'm following the recommended ramp. Yikes. I can't wait to do my first ceramic...!!! This brings to mind another question. Does the steam break down the investment plaster? It seems drying it quickly to strengthen it would be in order but that's my intuition talking...
I does not seem to have an effect on it, but the mfg says you have to go right to burn out after steam dewaxing so there must be something going on. Typically I just let the wax burn off int the kiln, but sometimes if there is alot of wax I will steam it out. Im not doing it to reclaim it. I just dont want that much wax burning in my kiln.
Dave, I think I found an error in the forum permissions that was keeping you from uploading photos. see if when you reply to this post that there are 3 buttons at the bottom of the screen. They should be post reply, upload a file, more options.
