Surface finish help

Discussion in 'Investment casting Ceramic shell method' started by ka_6772, Apr 11, 2020.

  1. ka_6772

    ka_6772 Copper

    Should I join it here to reinforce or only vent out the top?
     

    Attached Files:

  2. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I would join it...
    Like the styrofoam cup, but would like to see it thickened up a bit. Can you put another one inside it??
     
  3. ka_6772

    ka_6772 Copper

    I have a second one in there. I'm going to glue it up and start dipping.

    Thanks,
    Kevin
     
  4. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Awesome!!
     
  5. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    Wow, you're fast. Keep a full basin. I'll see if I can find a horn gate if your connection through the injector boss causes problems.
    This is the windmill gear in cast iron with the horn gate.

    [​IMG]
     
    Last edited: Apr 14, 2020
    ka_6772 likes this.
  6. Jason

    Jason Gold

    Good to hear. You'd be surprised the amount of trouble people that get into when melting stuff that belongs in the trash!
     
  7. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I'm kinda curious about something. In this picture there is a distinct flaw above the line that I drew. By any chance was there a crack in the mold at this point???
    20200415_111219.jpg
     
  8. Jason

    Jason Gold

    That defect is an innie.. Cracks usually leave an outtie.. Insert belly button reference here.:p
     
  9. ESC

    ESC Silver Banner Member

    I keep thinking of bubble trails from aspiration, but then Kevin mentioned finding debris in his last mold.
     
  10. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I know the difference between an innie and outie. Your certainly an innie ;)
    Ever heard of oxidation crazing?? (Given for reference when a crack in the mold causes an innie)
     
    Last edited: Apr 15, 2020
  11. Peedee

    Peedee Silver

    In my deeply unqualified opinion that is crap floating around in the mould. ~I have never seen Jason's outie, nor do I want to.
     
  12. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    It's possible, but forming a line up the side of the mold the way it did strikes me as peculiar.
     
  13. ka_6772

    ka_6772 Copper

    That is where the debris was, but I didn't find it filling all of those craters. I opened it in the yard so I don't have an inventory of everything that came out. Here is the piece from that side. It matches the model. There's no crack or spalling there. The lines in it are from the 10% infill. They are visible on the casting.

    Kevin
     

    Attached Files:

    DavidF likes this.
  14. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Kevin, any ETA on the next pour??
     
  15. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    One last question...
    How is the mold orientated in the kiln during burn out??? I'm assuming centered and sprue down???
     
  16. ka_6772

    ka_6772 Copper

    Hopefully tomorrow evening. I usually lay them on their side. My prints are 1mm thick (1mm nozzle) with 10% infill. When burning inverted, I've never seen anything melting out. It looks like it soaks through the shell. Colored pla and abs colors the shell before burning away. I only print in white now.
     
  17. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    What would be the odds of the side that is down being the side that keeps getting the surface imperfections??
    White filament is very high in filler pigments, neutral color pla (no fillers or pigments) burns out perfectly clean...
    Do you hold burn out for one hour at 930c or just heat up to and call it quits??
    My kiln takes 4 hours to get up to 930c ....
     
  18. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Guess I should add my prints are 2 shells, with a .4 nozzle and 20% infill...
     
  19. ka_6772

    ka_6772 Copper

    It is a definite possibility. I haven't logged heat up time, but it's pretty fast. Maybe an hour to get to 1800F. Then I hold for an hour. I can turn it on, go inside, get my molds, and it's 500F by the time I get back. I'll look for natural pla for my next order.
     
  20. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    The white pigment is probably titanium dioxide.
    Melts at 1800 C
    Think we might have found our problem..
     

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