Octopus sculpture

Discussion in 'Lost wax casting' started by Zapins, Dec 18, 2018.

  1. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    Hopefully Pat! If the sucker pads copy easily then it won't be difficult, but if there are a million defects then it's going to suck.

    I did 2 layers of fiberglass and resin over most of the mold. May have missed a few areas with the second coating so I'll probably go back and fix those now. I used half a gallon of the damn stuff already. I think I'll probably use another gallon if I want to add another layer and do the other side. This stuff is expensive AF. 46 bucks for a gallon and I'll probably need a second one.

    Too bad because I have a whole gallon that was barely used for my eagle. But the catalyst is bad now and buying 60 ml of catalist will cost me 30 bucks at RIP off store prices. Better to just shell out a bit more and get fresh everything with another gallon... damn stores and their daylight robbery tactics.... grumble grumble...

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  2. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Looks like you are rolling open face. What did you use on the eagle to keep the glass from sticking to the glass? Booty butter?
     
  3. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    Just the mold release 200 stuff. It worked but was hard to separate the two halves the first time.

    Open face?

    I'm going to do the other side with rubber and glass later.
     
  4. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    I slathered on the BB and still hit it with a mist of 200. She came apart, but took some pretty good prying. My recent video lies..... the joy of editing.
     
  5. crazybillybob

    crazybillybob Silver Banner Member

    Here's some hardener that's $17 and they ship it to your door. Unless you have a real auto body supply shop in your area your stuck with the gallon kit for the cost of your first born
    https://www.amazon.com/Evercoat-100...one+Peroxide&qid=1557324272&s=gateway&sr=8-26

    I have been told that a bit of furniture (paste) wax on the base fibergalss then hit of mold release will help the separation. Never tried it on Fiberglass, but it works on other resins to get models out of the bucks.
     
  6. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    For glass reinforced urethane and polyester molds/parts, a couple coats of paste wax, then a coat or two of PVA (Polyvinyl Alcohol), and then a couple coats of paste wax on top the PVA is a very common release process for those materials. The PVA acts as resin barrier and the wax as release. The PVA is water soluble and can be washed off.

    The PVA can be brushed or sprayed and quickly air dries.

    Best,
    Kelly
     
  7. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    I knew there had to be a better way than vaseline. I couldn't imagine Jeanneau ordering bootybutter by the drum.

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    Here's another sexy shot.

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  8. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    On my 3rd coat of silicone rubber on the second side of the tentacle.

    I'll add one more coat tonight in an hour or two and then fiberglass and epoxy goes on it tomorrow. Then it will be all done and ready to use. Hopefully I won't need more epoxy resin to finish it up.

    This mold making business takes a long damn time. It has taken a good 4 days to make this mold working on it most of the day.

    What I'd like to find is a colorant I can use to dye the silicone so I can tell the layers apart. It is difficult to be sure I've covered every spot of the first layer of silicone with the second because they are the same color.

    Any idea what I could use to color the silicone that won't interfere with curing?

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  9. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    I though smooth on made colorants??
     
  10. DavidF

    DavidF Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    are you moved yet?
     
  11. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    Maybe, I'll have a look. I found a colorant on ebay that I might try. I think black would probably be best.

    I moved the stuff in my TN apartment, but still need to move all my tools. A close friend in CT offered to store the stuff for me in his large garage/barn so I'll probably do that. Better than paying 150/week to store it all. I can probably even do some metal casting at his house as well. So that might work out well.
     
  12. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Mold making takes forever, just the way it is. yeah smoothon sells color stuff. I always forget to buy it. Ya dont need it. Burn through all your silicone, no need to save it once opened. If ya do have some left over, use it up by pouring keys for the next mold.
     
  13. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    Keys for next mold?

    I key my molds but I dont see how I could prep the next mold's keys without knowing what it is I'm making.

    Finished final layer of silicone. Now this biatch cures over night and I coat it with resin tomorrow.

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    Last edited: May 14, 2019
  14. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Keys for silicone to fiberglass mold. Did ya notice the blue keys on my last mold on the video? Just make some generic shapes.. I use little rectangles from a goodwill silicone mold. I slice them up to size and mash them in the last layer of silicone. Then the fiberglass goes over that.
     
  15. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    Yeah I didn't key the fiberglass mold on the tentacle. Perhaps I should have, but I figured the surface wasn't smooth and has some irregularities in it so I assume it will line up. Also will drill bolt holes to align it all. I'll have to rewatch the video and look out for them.
     
  16. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    If the mold is pretty floppy, I add them. I lost the footage of where I sliced it up the back, It's at that slice I added little blue blocks on each side of the split to help lock it into the mm. The way I molded this one, kept the parting line to a minimal. Just one and up the back of the tree.
     
  17. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    More or less got all the layers on. Only 2 layers of fiberglass and a ton of resin. Almost 2 full gallons poured into this thing front and back. I may patch a few more areas then tidy it up when it's done.

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  18. Jason

    Jason Silver Banner Member

    Nice mess.........:p
     
  19. Zapins

    Zapins Silver

    This stuff is awful and I hate it. At least I haven't sliced my hands open yet. But it burns my eyes and stinks up the whole house. Last coat is on, waiting for it to cure, then I'll finish it up.

    I slathered a lot of vaseline between the 2 layers of fiberglass. Let's see if it helps keep them apart better than the mold release 200.
     
  20. Al2O3

    Al2O3 Administrator Staff Member Banner Member

    Zap, There are epoxy laminating resins that are less aromatic........they typically don't kick as fast but depends upon what you buy.

    Best,
    K
     

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