Yea I know but if you don't have the pieces machined down to the .018 they are not going to turn out and I am here to tell there are some pretty looking drawers, Well done is an understatement I am honored to be a part of this forum. Thank Your all!
I'm not sure what to make of this but French cars, Renault, Peugeot and Citroën are almost extinct in Canada. You still see the occasional old one but new ones are impossible to buy here.
The big 3 have been gone here from the states for many years... I liked the Peugeot's back in the 1980s. I could easily sell every 505 I could find. Nice cars when they worked. How about Sterling? They were rebadged hondas with leather and wood. Electrics were junk however. 0% was pretty good in 1990 back when it wasnt the norm.
Never heard of them, guessing the never made it into Canada. Canada has fairly strict rules for importing new cars into the country, in this context, "new" means less than 15 years old.
Sterling was Rover in england and they would buy japanese stuff, slap a badge, add some wood and leather and flog it. To say british Leyland had quality problems back then is an understatement. Here is a great example of a honda civic with a rover badge... The show is called keeping up appearances and worth checking out. You'll laugh your ass off at this one.
I had a Rover 214 with the K engine, went through more head gaskets than it did miles (almost) pile of crap. Then lotus decided to put the K in their Elise, first one I saw cooked itself on the MOT ramp. Good ole 'British' engineering. We did have some good-uns but not on Fridays when the pubs were open............. I keep thinking I should get a dovetail jig, nice work.
Sure enough.. The old A and B series Austin engines were tough as old boots. Even the jag 6cylinder is almost bulletproof. It's just the everything else that can be a pain in the ass. After I dovetailed the boxes, I did a rabbit for the bottoms. I had one box drawer all in glue and when I slid in the bottom, it was exactly one inch too long! I have a nasty habit when using a tape measure to start at one, but then forget to subtract that one out of the total dimension. I had glue all over the place!
Sitting in mockup tonight. The faucets were 1inch too low. Not bad for spitballing on paper. I had to raise the drain and route the stink pipe around electrical for the sconces. 18" travertine is going on the entire wall about 6" below the crown. I've learned, most plumbers do not install shut off valves on these. Not this guy! Each faucet is getting a pair of 1/4 turn ball valves. Plumbing them or figuring out HOW to plumb them has been a mind bender. I've got a plan for them..... I think.... lol Yes, that ugly ass medicine cabinet on the wall is outta there!
Man thats super swish. Nice work on putting it all together its been a long time and we'll worth it. When you sell the house one day be sure to rip out the sink and take it with you haha.
Yeah no shit... I'm not leaving that mirror that's for damn sure. I think I have about 1100 in the mirror and 800 in the sink. You know the funny thing, I've talked to 2 different granite places here, brought them both plans for the shower and neither one of them has gotten back to me after leaving them messages. I'm beginning to think they don't, won't or can't hang granite slabs on the walls. So I started thinking, fine, F- 'em! I'll do the walls in bronze too! THEN when I sell the house, I rip it all out and leave a shitty fiberglass tub/shower thing from blowes in it's place. I won't lose a dime and think of all those wonderful panels of B R O N Z E just waiting to be turned into cool shit! Hell, the metal itself is probably a better investment than a lot of things right now. I took a peak the other day at the stocks and wish I hadn't.
I always use shut offs. I think it might even be code here finally, though if you use the shitty BrassCraft ones, I don't see the point. Something in those washers like to erode and clog up expensive ceramic cartridges. But I'm not a plumber. Partition stops for the wall mount faucet work well and finish up neatly in the cabinet assuming your using copper. https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/globe-stops/partition-stops.php I generally prefer ball valves, but adjusting the flow out of the wall mount faucet so it doesn't wet your (ahem) is easier with the partition stops. I put them below in the vanity, but I guess you could put them behind the mirror too. I've recessed ball valves in the wall too and made an extension for the handles, but if you ever need to service them... Looks like we might be in a race to finish our copper/bronze/brass showers...are you doing frameless for the shower door or bronze frame?
Ahh.. Partition stops... That sounds like a good idea. I'm running copper all the way. Not a fan of pex. I agree, typical brasscraft shutoffs suck. My plan at the moment is to have the faucets supply lines exit the finished wall and into the cabinet. The water supply will also take a turn and come into the cabinet. From there, I was thinking the Kitz brass valves will be REPLACEABLE via compression fittings on copper pipe. As usual, I've probably gone way overboard. I've got 8 of those brass 90 degree shower head things you screw to the studs, 20 in total threaded adapters, 4 valves and 8 compression fittings. It should make Mars by Christmas. I've never used partition stops, how do they work? Do you bury them in the wall and when you need to shut them off, stick a tool through a hole and give it a twist? You'll beat me to the finish on the shower, I want to get this vanity done before I rip out the old ugly shower and start welding... I am planning a solid fixed glass panel and 1 frameless door that will seal with the flexible plastic piece glued to the glass. I'm going to sub out that work. It should be money well spent when if it starts to act a fool.
I think this is my animal. I'm guessing the tool goes in the long copper pipe. Only trouble is, now I gotta find 4 of them. https://www.dahlvalve.com/products/globe-stops/partition-stops/partition-stops-E2310-442008.php FOUND 'EM! 160bucks with a key.
Yup. That's them. I can't remember the price last time I got them. I've also used full port ball valves, much cheaper and they work just as well, just a pain if the faucet needs balancing. I'm sure you can make a t-"wrench" or handle if you go the ball valve route. I've only had them leak at the stem if overheated, otherwise should give lifetime/ish of service.
I appreciate you pointing these valves out to me. I knew there had to be a better method than what I was thinking of. Lowes is going to be pissed at me when I return 150bucks worth of fittings and BS!