Ruby Casting (verneuli flame fusion)

How's this wiring look? See any mistakes?

 

Last picture from the above post - I'm unsure if that is correct. Bottom 2 connectors say GND (ground?) And vcc. But I have a black negative line going in there from the power supply.

Also have a negative line going into the GND on the speed controller board at the top. Is that correct?

I connected up all the negatives on the driver and put them into the "common anode" on the speed controller board. Nothing going into the 5-12v input.

 

You have all the input grounds connected together with red wire and going to the second terminal from the top on the controller board, which is "common anode" or power supply + plus, you need it on the third terminal down the common cathode/negative/ground/ - terminal instead (according to the diagram image in your post #60). Also the wire colour convention is to use red wire for positive/plus and black wire for negative/ground to avoid later confusion (although that's niggling). Apart from that one terminal it all looks fine, although running the stepper driver off a separate power supply to the stepper controller board will give electrical isolation between the two boards in case of an electrical fault , thanks to the input opto-isolators giving electrical isolation.

If you have a multimeter handy you can check voltages, continuity to ground and power supply voltages which will give more certainty to your efforts.

 

Ok I will move it to the 3rd one and change to black to keep everything straight for the future. Ill power it up now.

 

It works! The speed control works decently. I'll try change the step like you said and see if I can get it slower or faster. I need to find my tachometer and check the speeds I'm able to get. Only issue is the speed controller doesn't seem to allow the motor to reverse. It just freezes up the motor when I try reverse it.

Hmm.

Do you think this power supply could run another motor setup just like this? Or would I need another power supply to run a second stepper? I think it probably can since it came off a 3d printer that had 3 steppers on it and a heat nozzle and cup board.

 

@$^&# AWESOME, well done!!!.... another recruit heh heh heh . You can work it out roughly by calculating the power consumption of each stepper versus the power supply: 12Volt output x 2 Amps per stepper = 24 Watts more or less (if only one winding is used at a time, not microstepping both windings). So the power supply wattage divided by 24 Watts per stepper (they do get warm) gives the number of steppers.

Not sure what the reversing issue is caused by.

 

Well with the original configuration I was able to get 9.8 rpm to 293 rpm range.

When I tried your configuration it seemed to spin it faster than original configuration in post 60. The motor seemed to be unable to spin faster than a certain point and locked up/froze the spindle until I dropped the speed dial below that threshold.

I'd like to see if I could get the motor to spin slower than 10 rpm. Would be great to get fractions of an rpm.

I also figured out the reverse thing. Just the sequence of buttons pressed makes it go in reverse.

 

With DIP switches 1, 2, 3 all set to OFF you have the slowest range. The controller board also has the yellow link with three speed settings: high medium and low with it currently set to medium according to your photos.

Edit: Stepper motors can't run too fast, that's just the nature of how they are built. Over a certain speed you have to switch to DC motors with position encoders and electronic control.

 

Will try that.

I finished the container that holds the powder. Long inverted cone on the middle.



Making a new support column for the drill press part. This way I get some extra height and wiggle room to adjust all the bits


Cutting some blue chips tonight gentlemen.

 

I tried my hand at broaching on the lathe. Its harder than it looks. I found the chip builds up (seen on left side). No worries though I'll cut off the left side to make the final part.

I'm making a 3/4" to 8 mm shaft adapter to fit my 170 tooth gear to the 8 mm lead screw.

I almost wish I had an 8 mm reamer since I think the 8 mm metric drill bit I have coming tomorrow is going to overshoot the shaft size when drilled. Any ideas? I mean I guess it doesn't matter very much since I will use some set screws to fix the adapter to the lead screw firmly without it wiggling around on me. Can also use some tin foil to shim it if needed.

 

Concerning the broaching: you can’t cut to a blind stop. Drill a hole at the end of the broach cut. If your cutter is sharp, has proper relief and rake, and adequate side clearance, it should peel out nice clean shiny chips one after another. If you try to cut to a blind stop the chip can’t cleanly separate where the cutter stops. So you end up with the stairs steps you show in you photo. The cutter itself can be hard tool steel or HSS either one. The surface speed of cut is negligible so HSS or carbide is unnecessary. But an ending hole, sharpness, relief angles, and rigidity of the cutter are essential. I honed the cutting edge using medium and the fine diamond stones until the were, under 10x magnification, very very shiny, smooth, and grabbed a bite on my fingernail when testing for sharpness

Here is a video of me cutting a gear keyway on my Bridgeport. Skip the first minute. Chips and results can be seen at about 4:10 or so.



Denis

 

Ha. If I get this thing to work at all I'll be surprised.

Yeah I figured I needed a hole or free edge to push the chip over but I only realized that once it was already centered in the chuck and i didn't feel like taking it off and drilling the hole then re-entering it so I winged it.

Next time I'll keep it in mind.

Also I think I could work on the geometry if the scraper a bit more like you mentioned. I don't think it was optimal.

 

There is some discussion of keyway cutting in this thread and a couple pics of a cutter I made. Back then I used a carbide cutting edge though that, I now realize, was overkill. The geometry of the cutter was good.
See this post and another a few posts down for a frontal view of the cutter.

https://www.practicalmachinist.com/...x-removal-help-219110/index2.html#post1514147

Denis

 

Finished the adapter. Works ok. Runs true at least, one day ill get down the process enough to make it look pretty.

On to the next part...

 

Denis I love your mill. Such beautiful ways. One day I'll buy one too!

I looked at the pictures but I want to be sure I have the grind angles correct do you have a diagram of the cutter geometry? I had trouble finding a picture of what they need to look like. Probably because I'm searching with the wrong terms...

 

Here are approximate angles that I use on such cutters. What hardness steel you are cutting will make some difference with harder steel perhaps needing more bottom angle. If you have discovered 12L14, good for you as it will cut so much easier and cleaner than 1018 or , worse, unkownium. There are several online sources of various useful steel alloys. I favor McMaster-Carr as they are quick and shipping is reasonable. And with them I trust that the materials are accurately labeled and are of good quality. If you have discovered O1 tool steel it would make a fine cutter. Prior to widespread use of HSS beginning in the 1940’s all machining was done with tool steels like O1. It is quite easy to harden and temper O1 with a propane or MAPP gas torch.




Denis

Addendum: In practice I would not leave the two corners of the cutting face as acutely squared off as shown. The corners are too fragile if left dead sharp. As a final sharpening step I would use a diamond file or sharpening stone to ease the acute angle formed by the sides and the inclined front surface of the cutter. I back it off just 20 thou or so. If what I mean is not clear, I can add a drawing. As a result of easing that edge, the groove that the cutter makes will have included corners that are slightly rounded—-a good thing.



And, yes, exaggerate has two “g’s”

 

Thanks. Very clear diagram. I had thought the cutting edge had a slant to it like other cutting tips. I'll see if I can grind a copy of yours instead.

Also I think I set up the cutter wrong. I had it at a 90 degree angle to the work instead of parallel. I broke two bits doing that. I'll give you method a go at some point. Would be interesting to cut gears this way. But I suppose I'd need a dividing head for that.

 

I received the other 2 stepper motors and wired them up (fyeww! My fingers are sore!) If I overlap the connections on the power supply unit do you think there will be any interference or issues? In other words plug in the red and black lines onto the same terminals on the PSU going to the driver and to the speed dial?

 

That's what I do/did.